Evonik: New German plant will significantly boost production of sustainable cosmetic emollients

06 Sep 2024 --- Evonik opens a multi-million dollar plant in Steinau, Germany, to meet high market demand for cosmetic emollients with a portfolio of more than 200 products. The company tells Personal Care Insights the new facility will complement existing capacity from facilities in Duisburg, Germany and Shanghai, China, making it a “stronghold for innovation for the cosmetics industry as well as biodegradable specialty surfactants and active substances.” 

Evonik has been manufacturing esters by enzyme catalysis for almost 25 years. Esters are produced from vegetable oils and used as emollients in skin care products. Emollients are cosmetic oils and waxes that account for 10–25% of cosmetic emulsions. However, Evonik points out that emollients account for 70–80% of a product’s climate footprint. 

Dr. Wolfgang Goertz is vice president of Cosmetic Solutions and sees the new plant increasing capacity to manufacture esters by around 300%:

“We are investing in technology of the future. Emollients are an important component of cosmetic products, and we have seen a sharp rise in demand for sustainable emollients in recent years. Our enzymatic process reduces the climate footprint from manufacturing by more than 60 percent. We also use bio-based and renewable raw materials; the resulting emollients are biodegradable. Therefore, there is great potential to help our customers develop sustainable cosmetic formulations.”

The company also states that its All Care Solutions production sites are powered exclusively by renewable energy. The new facility’s climate footprint will “drop to virtually zero from a gate-to-gate perspective.”

Evonik says the new Steinau plant in Germany exemplifies its transformation with biotechnology.Manufacturing diversity

As more Western businesses try to reduce dependence on China, we asked the specialty chemicals company if that motivated expansion in its native country. Dr. Goertz emphasizes that Evonik still operates globally with manufacturing sites in various countries, including China, Brazil, India, Japan and the US.

“Evonik values a diverse manufacturing footprint to best serve our customers worldwide and is committed to global supply security while maintaining a robust and responsive supply chain. This involves balancing manufacturing operations across different regions, including a significant strategic presence in Germany. There are many advantages to maintaining a strong manufacturing base in Germany, such as the availability of a highly skilled workforce and a strong infrastructure.”

Dr. Goertz says the Steinau facility and the recently-built rhamnolipid plant in Slovakia exemplify how Evonik is taking responsibility and transforming with biotechnology to create sustainable and innovative solutions.

Evonik launches CapilAcid natural active for hair care and Oleobiota for oily skin concerns.New sustainable launches

Evonik also boosts its botanical and natural actives portfolio with two new products.

CapilAcid is an active ingredient derived from the Maqui fruit grown in Andean Patagonia. It is touted as a powerful antioxidant and “comprehensive protector from the root to the tip of the hair [which] excels in acidic formulations, safeguarding hair against exposome-induced stress and promoting overall hair health.”

The company says the second active ingredient, Oleobiota, is sourced sustainably from the Misiones rainforest and will help “regulate oiliness and mattify combination and oily skin while minimizing the appearance of pores.”

Both products are from Novachem, which it acquired last year and is now integrating into its Care Solutions business.

Last week, Evonik hosted the German Chancellor at its facility in Marl, Germany, where Olag Scholz addressed the EU’s proposed ban on per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Scholz told reporters that, within the EU, he would take a “pragmatic approach” to PFAS legislation that “does not hinder Germany’s industrial development…but promotes it.”

Evonik told us it welcomed the news and “approves of balanced regulatory measures for PFAS.”

By Anita Sharma