Fermented traditional medicinal plants and thermal “hydrobiome” solutions at center of dermocosmetics research

12 Jul 2023 --- Natural skin health products that are potent, effective and non-toxic are in demand, with new research spotlighting plant and water-based solutions. Korean scientists have stipulated that FRO, a formula composed of fermented Rhus verniciflua Stokes (FRV) and Orostachys japonicus (OJ) extracts, exert potent anti-acne effects.

Meanwhile, Spanish researchers have studied the “hydrobiome” of spring thermal waters, finding derivatives for use in cosmeceuticals.

Alternatives to expensive acne medications
The Korea-based researchers flag that many acne medications are often expensive, and consumers experience several side effects. Examples include oral medications, topical antimicrobials and retinoid agents, laser and light therapy, chemical peels and hormonal agents.

Instead, they suggest that non-toxic natural products with a multi-targeting potential and high efficacy may ameliorate acne. This led to the study of the FRO formula of fermented extracts, which evidenced it can improve acne due to its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-lipogenic and antioxidant effects.

“FRO treatment of acne vulgaris is predominantly associated with its exceptional anti-sebum production ability via the regulation of SREBP-1 and modulation of inflammation and oxidants via the NF-κB and STAT signaling pathways. In conclusion, FRO can be used as a functional cosmetic or acne treatment,” detail the authors.

“Acne vulgaris is a common skin disease characterized by increased sebum production, inflammation and Cutibacterium acnes (CA: formerly Propionibacterium acnes) hyperproliferation in pilosebaceous follicles.”

Fermentation mitigates allergies
Rhus verniciflua Stokes, one of the FRO formula ingredients, is a lacquer tree known for its anticancer, antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, also used in traditional medicine and food supplement in South Korea.

FRO inhibition against CA (Image Credit: FRO study).Despite its benefits, its use is limited as urushiol, found in the tree, causes allergies. However, the fermented version, being urushiol-free, overcomes this challenge. 

In addition, traditional medicine OJ naturally grows in Korea, China and Japan and is known to alleviate symptoms such as fever, inflammation and bleeding, share the researchers. 

“OJ has been shown to possess bioactive, antiproliferative, anti-angiogenic and anti-metastatic properties against cancer.”

Zeroing in on mechanisms
The FRO formula was found to contain several phenolic compounds, protecting against oxidative stress and inflammation. The compounds include gallic acid, fisetin, kaempferol and quercetin.

Moreover, FRO exhibited antimicrobial activity against CA. “Sebum production is considered the first step in acne pathology; this accumulation aggravates acne by initiating hyperkeratinization and CA colonization in the sebaceous glands,” note the authors.

“FRO suppressed CA growth and sebum production by the sebaceous glands, which was otherwise induced by hormones or causative bacteria.”

Androgen hormones such as DHT regulate sebum production, and the overproduction of cytokines can prevent the immune system from functioning normally. 

FRO was found to inhibit the increase in cytokine levels, reactive oxygen species and nitric oxides, which can activate inflammatory responses. It also suppresses transcription factors STAT-3 and NF-κB, which can cause inflammation.

Researching thermal water microbes
In separate research investigating natural solutions for dermatological diseases, scientists studied the living microbiota in thermal spring water, named “hydrobiome,” for its therapeutic effects. They suggest hydrobiome-derived compounds can be used as a bioactive ingredient in dermocosmetics.

“Bioactive compounds from the hydrobiome of thermal spring waters can improve dermatological diseases such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea and ameliorate pruritus and xerosis; and also increase protection against UV exposure, strengthen barrier function, maintain good homeostasis of skin defenses, repair damaged skin, promote wound healing, improve skin condition, reduce the uneven skin pigmentation and prevent skin aging,” highlight the authors.

“Among them, it is worth mentioning the exopolysaccharides from bacteria of thermal spring waters, which until now, have been poorly studied.”

Although the hydrobiome of hot springs has been studied for its effects on the skin’s microbiome, the researchers underscore that more research is needed on the hydrobiome of thermal waters and how it plays a role in balancing the skin microbiota.(Image Credit: University of Vigo).

Hydrobiome and skin microbiome connection
The researchers highlight a study that compared the effects of Lakitelek thermal water and tap water on the skin’s microbiome in healthy volunteers. 

“After balneotherapy in mineral water containing sodium hydrogen carbonate, the number of certain inflammatory, infectious agents decreased (for example, Pseudomonas), and other more beneficial ones increased,” describe the authors. 

“For example, the Deinococcus genus increased, and knowing that it may play an important role in inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus infection, this can be considered a positive effect. Moreover, the same happened with Rothia mucilaginosa, which can secrete anti-inflammatory mediators.”

The researchers also detail that Avène spring water has been found to reduce the number of lesional sites colonized by Staphylococcus aureus in people with atopic dermatitis, while Comano spring water improved skin regeneration in animal experimental models.

Aquatherapies in skin care
Thermal spring waters have been traditionally used for their medicinal and well-being benefits. They have been reported to benefit a variety of diseases across rheumatology, gastroenterology, pulmonology and dermatology. The researchers et 

“But biological properties may not be entirely explained by their mineral composition only; therefore, the interactions between the biological fraction of thermal waters and the skin are an area of research of growing interest,” continue the authors.

Personal Care Insights previously featured research into the skin healing properties of thermal waters collected from 12 hot springs. Moreover, deep sea water was suggested for antimicrobial applications and was explored for skin health.

Potential for industry growth
The Spain-based study highlights that only a few companies sell dermacosmetics whose main ingredient or excipient is thermal water. These companies are involved in researching the extracts, lysates or metabolites of the microbiota of these thermal waters.

Due to this narrow research focus, the authors flag that only the efficacy of these ingredients could be evaluated by their analysis.

“From the analysis of scientific articles, only six companies that developed dermocosmetic products linked to the hydrobiome of thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, La Roche-Posay, Uriage and Vichy). The active ingredients range from extracts to exopolysaccharides, peptides and lipids,” share the authors.

“From a future perspective, fruitful cooperation among researchers, hydrologists, thermal spa centers and cosmetic industries will drive this sector toward a better understanding of the role of the hydrobiome of thermal spring waters on the skin and dermatological diseases and consider the inclusion of derivatives of this hydrobiome (in the form of fermenters, lysates, extracts, etc.) in dermocosmetic formulations.”

By Venya Patel