Givaudan Active Beauty electrifies hyaluronic acid with “never achieved before” pairing with vectorized bentonite clay

30 Mar 2022 --- Active ingredient expert Givaudan Active Beauty has launched Cristalhyal e-perfection, an ingredient designed by white biotechnology to charge hyaluronic acid (HA) molecules with electrostaticity for further epidermal penetration. The high molecular weight (HMW) HA is paired with “a sustainable and patented vectorized complex of bentonite clay.”

“HMW HA has the best hydration properties versus smaller molecular weights, which are more known to target well-aging properties but do not spontaneously penetrate the skin, preventing any long-lasting benefits,” Pauline Martin, operational marketing & communication manager at Givaudan Active Beauty tells PersonalCareInsights. 

“Givaudan Active Beauty white biotechnology experts have been looking for the most efficient way to vectorize HMW HA into the skin, by building on its electrostatic properties, to deliver instant and long-term hydration, mattifying and smoothing benefits.”

Changing the HA molecule
Martin continues to explain that the best way to influence the changes of the HA molecule is to adapt the composition of the ingredient.Hyaluronic acid is perceived as the gold standard for skincare, leading the beauty market as the hero molecule most mentioned and requested by consumers, says the company. 

“They [the experts] identified bentonite, a specific type of clay from volcanic ash sediments, as an interesting candidate.”

“Thanks to a patented and proprietary process, bentonite can be activated to entrap molecules of HMW HA efficiently. This results in a complex between clay and HA, where HA molecules are negatively charged (in contact with cations), and thus benefit from an electrical attraction from the skin’s deep layers,” shares Martin. 

“It presents a specific organization, an aggregate of lamellar platelets, packed together by electrochemical forces and containing interposition water.To equilibrate the natural negative charges of the bentonite itself, this lamellar the structure usually entraps exchangeable cations, such as calcium, magnesium or sodium.” 

Targeting deeper epidermis
“Thanks to a patented and proprietary process, bentonite clay can be activated to efficiently entrap HMW HA molecules in specific lamellar structures’ interstitial space,” shares Amandine Scandolera, head of biological evaluation for Active Beauty. “bentonite can be activated to entrap molecules of HMW HA efficiently,” shares Martin.

“Hyaluronic acid molecules will thus benefit from an electrical attraction from the skin’s deep layers to a depth of 75 microns.”

Martin suggests: “Cristalhyal has been clinically tested on dry skin, but it can be formulated in diverse cosmetic products such as Anti-ageing serum, flash anti-aging cream, fine lines reducing essence, skin rejuvenating mist, well-aging lotion, mattifying toner, anti-shine skincare, oily skin serum, skin perfector.”

“The ingredient can be formulated into genderless products as it suits everybody’s needs. As formulated into our marketing concept, it is the perfect fit for the first wrinkles product targeting 30 to 35-year-old consumers. It is also suitable for make-up applications.” 

The clinical tests showed more than 24-hour extended hydration benefits that smoothen the skin, a decrease of fine lines in the crow’s feet area (27.3%) within a month, mattifying effects and a reduction of skin shininess (27.4%). 

The team at Givaudan Active Beauty has also formulated S3D Step Up that combines Cristalhyal e-Perfection and Neoporyl. This non-tinted skin quality and texture improver will be unveiled at the in-cosmetics global, Paris, along with Patchoul’Up.

By Venya Patel