Microneedle magic: Under-eye wrinkle patch, antioxidant mesotherapy and mineral Cica Reedle

24 Jun 2024 --- Recent developments in microneedling reveal its effectiveness on the skin. One study supports the safety and efficacy of combining antioxidants applied through sonophoresis and microneedle mesotherapy. The other offers insights into different microneedle patch (MNP) designs, highlighting their potential as effective at-home treatments for under-eye wrinkles.

Meanwhile, the new VT Mild Reedle Shot, a trending Korean skin care essence on social media promises microneedling effects in a bottle. It comes in different intensity levels, creating a pricking feeling on the skin, which the company claims helps absorb actives deeper into the skin.

The product contains Cica Reedle, which Olive Young says gently stimulates the skin and aids in skin absorption, resulting in smooth skin.The micro-sized mineral-derived particles apparently allow for 14 times thinner absorption than pores and provide soothing benefits.

Aqua Porin and Cica Hyalon are added for moisturizing, astaxanthin for vitality and energy and aloe extract for moisturizing and soothing care. 

Comparison of skin appearance before treatments with appearance after a series of treatments with anti-aging effect (Image credit: Medical University of Lodz).Combination approach
In treatments, a study shows the effectiveness of combining L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid and phloretin with sonophoresis and microneedle mesotherapy.

Researchers stress the importance of antioxidants in preventing skin aging and environmental damage. L-ascorbic acid, which stimulates collagen synthesis and protects against oxidative stress, demonstrated increased stability and efficacy when combined with ferulic acid and phloretin. Ferulic acid stabilized and provided antioxidant benefits, while phloretin helped to reduce melanin production and protect blood vessels.

The treatment showed “significant improvements” in skin hydration and erythema reduction without major side effects. The study, which included 22 volunteers, sought to assess the effect of these advanced delivery methods on skin parameters.

Key findings
Low skin hydration and erythema are common issues associated with aging and environmental stressors. However, participants reported noticeable anti-aging effects, emphasizing the potential of this combined treatment.

Researchers say the application of antioxidants via microneedle mesotherapy and sonophoresis reduced facial redness, enhancing participants’ psychological well-being.

Both treatment methods improved skin hydration, particularly in areas prone to dryness, such as the cheeks. It had an improvement in barrier function due to the antioxidant properties of the applied compounds.

Treatment method
The study used a combination of 10% L-ascorbic acid, 0.5% ferulic acid and 2% phloretin administered via sonophoresis on one side of the face and microneedle mesotherapy on the other. 

The researchers say these methods were chosen because they can deliver active substances deep into the skin without affecting systemic circulation, minimizing side effects.

Microneedle mesotherapy used 0.2 mm needles, which allowed for deeper penetration of antioxidants and stimulated collagen production while not significantly improving skin elasticity due to the needle’s shallow depth.

Research shows that sonophoresis is a low-frequency ultrasound-based method that increases cell permeability and the kinetic energy of active substances, allowing them to penetrate the epidermis.

Both methods were seen to improve the skin, with no significant difference in overall effectiveness.

Percentage change in under-eye wrinkle grade assessed by independent blinded dermatologists (Image credits: Thammasat University). Microneedle patch designs
A separate study, also in Cosmetics, shows the effectiveness and safety of two novel MNP designs for reducing under-eye wrinkles. 

The study compared patches with varying needle lengths and densities to determine their effect on skin rejuvenation. It was carried out as a double-blind, split-face clinical trial with 36 Thai female participants and sought to shed light on non-invasive cosmetic treatments that can be safely used at home.

Participants received two MNP designs: one with 250 μm long needles at 945 needles/cm² under the left eye and another with 350 μm long needles at 482 needles/cm² under the right eye. The treatments lasted 12 weeks, with assessments at regular intervals.

Difference between needles
Both MNP designs were found to be effective at reducing under-eye wrinkles, with improvements observed in skin surface roughness and wrinkle reduction. 

Researchers say the 350 μm needles showed slightly higher efficacy in wrinkle reduction, but the difference was not statistically significant. However, the longer needles caused marginally more pain than the shorter, denser needles. There were no adverse side effects, indicating that both MNP designs are safe.

The study emphasized the potential benefits of different needle lengths and densities in MNPs. Like the 350 μm design, longer needles can stimulate collagen production more effectively, resulting in faster wrinkle reduction. Increasing needle density, as seen in the 250 μm design, reduced pain.

Participants expressed high satisfaction with both treatments, particularly the convenience of self-application at home. The findings indicate that both MNP designs are viable options for non-invasive ways to rejuvenate under-eye skin.

Representative participants that applied microneedle patches from week 0 until week 12. The 45-degree angle photographs were evaluated every two weeks (Image credits: Thammasat University).
Growing at-home treatments
The study’s results are promising for at-home personal care products. The paper highlights the ability to reduce under-eye wrinkles without the need for professional intervention, opening new opportunities for consumer skin care routines.

Additionally, researchers note their findings align with the growing trend of home-use cosmetic devices, which gained traction during the COVID-19 pandemic. Consumers increasingly seek effective, user-friendly solutions to integrate into their daily skin care regimens.

While the study focused on a specific demographic, researchers suggest that future studies should include a more diverse population with different skin types. 

Long-term studies would also help assess the durability of the effects observed. Furthermore, exploring different MNP designs and potential drug delivery mechanisms could improve the efficacy of microneedle patches.

By Venya Patel