Sasol Chemicals unveils plant-based cosmetic ingredient as palm oil alternative

Sasol Chemicals is launching a European-made, biobased emulsion stabilizing ingredient from rapeseed oil for personal care manufacturers looking for a more sustainable alternative to palm oil-based ingredients.

Sasol’s new ingredient, NACOL 18-98, is a stearyl alcohol that can be used as a conditioning agent, stabilizer and consistency regulator. It is designed as a replacement for palm oil-based stearyl alcohol, a common ingredient in cosmetics and lotions that improves product texture and softens the skin. 

Personal Care Insights spoke to Sasol’s Dr. Dominic Büning, manager of R&D Personal Care & Health for this story. 

“NACOL 18-98 is a drop-in replacement for stearyl alcohol alternatives manufactured from palm oil and yields a more favorable product carbon footprint and overall sustainability profile,” Büning tells us. “There is no difference in terms of specification or application performance.”

Sasol says the ingredient is manufactured from rapeseed oil produced in Europe, generating a smaller carbon footprint compared to palm stearyl alcohols imported to the region. 

Additionally, palm oil-derived products entering the region must meet European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) guidelines, requiring companies to trace palm oil sources meticulously. As a result, NACOL 18-98 claims to offer a more sustainable alternative that makes sourcing and traceability easier.

“Responding to the EUDR, we developed this as a readily available alternative to palm oil derivatives,” says Louis Snyders, VP of Care Chemicals at Sasol. 

“We offer a broad range of alcohols, and as we continue to evolve our product portfolio, we continue to seek natural and bio-based ingredients as alternatives to help our customers achieve their sustainability goals,” he says.

Tracking biobased oils

Ingredients from rapeseed oil can be more sustainable than those from palm oil but it depends on cultivation and processing factors. Generally, palm oil produces a high yield of product for the amount of land it uses, but global production has also contributed to massive deforestation according to the World Resources Institute. 

Rapeseed oil has a lower yield and requires more land to produce the equivalent amount of palm oil. Still, rapeseed does not contribute to the same level of global deforestation but can still lead to biodiversity loss, as do many large-scale agricultural practices.

Though Sasol is increasing its palm-free ingredient offerings, it still produces ingredients that use palm oil and palm kernel oil. According to its palm oil policy, it “is committed to reducing the impact on the environment and social aspects connected to sourcing of palm oil, palm kernel oil and derivatives.”A palm farm next to the edge of a rainforest.

Sasol is an active member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). This group aims to produce palm oil sustainably and with ethical considerations for labor. According to a 2023 self-reported document to RSPO, 97% of Sasol’s palm and palm kernel oil is sold, traded, or processed in Europe. Of the total volume the company sourced in 2023, approximately 13% was RSPO-certified. The same document said the company expected to only source RSPO-certified certified palm oil and oil palm products in 2025. 

“Sasol is placing an increasing emphasis on offering sustainable and circular solutions that align with global trends in biodegradability, simplicity and sustainability,” says Büning. 

“Sustainability is top of mind for formulators and final customers across various industries, ranging from care chemicals to technical applications. NACOL 18-98 is addressing the need for more sustainable products while having the advantage of being a drop-in solution. By using this product or others like it, our customers can improve the sustainability profile of their products in an effective and efficient manner.”

Sasol is not the only company producing palm-free cosmetic ingredient offerings. Cosphatic recently added Cosphaderm Propanediol natural palm free as a corn-derived formulation. 

Deforestation-free products in Europe

The EUDR on deforestation-free products was introduced in 2023 and is part of a broader plan to address global deforestation and reduce carbon emissions. Companies must work to transition to deforestation-free supply chains under these criteria. 

However, ambassadors from palm oil-producing countries sent a joint letter to the EU in response to the new deforestation regulation, expressing concern that the regulation overlooks localized circumstances that make it challenging to meet the new criteria. 

Personal Care Insights spoke to an EU Commission spokesperson about the initial reaction to the letter, who cited EU engagement with producer countries to implement and meet the new benchmarks.