Seppic to open US fermentation lab for bio-based beauty ingredients

Beauty ingredient company Seppic will open a lab for fermentation biotechnology research at Air Liquide Group’s Innovation Campus in Delaware, US.

Seppic, a subsidiary of Air Liquide Healthcare, produces ingredients for cosmetics, nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals, veterinary and industrial products.

The fermentation lab will create more eco-friendly bio-based ingredients. Franco Manfré, Seppic’s research and innovation director, speaks to Personal Care Insights about the new laboratory. 

“Fermentation biotechnologies offer the possibility of producing original raw materials and ingredients. These may be base materials, or used as intermediates in a biobased chemistry process, difficult to produce by traditional chemical transformations, or accessible in volumes too low to be used to manufacture ingredients for the cosmetics and health markets,” says Manfré. 

Seppic says bio-based ingredients are a response to societal challenges in the cosmetic and health fields that demand more environmentally conscious products. The lab’s location, which will be fitted with new equipment, will be in close collaboration with Air Liquide’s R&D facilities. 

Air Liquide Healthcare specializes in medical gases, home health care services and specialty ingredients. Its subsidiary, Seppic, says nearly 15% of its workforce is dedicated to research.

“Biotechnology enables us to meet the demand for innovative, responsible ingredients. It makes the production of bio-based ingredients on a large scale possible while controlling land use and targeting non-food substrates,” adds Manfré. 

Seppic will eventually use the laboratory to infuse beauty products with bio-based ingredients. The company does not currently offer fermented ingredients for use in personal care, but Manfré says this is in line for development at the new facility. The facility’s size is unclear, and the team is still in production. 

Hannes Moeller, CEO at Seppic, says, “Following the opening in 2024 of new research facilities at our Castres site in France, Seppic continues to invest in the future with this laboratory in the US. It will enable us to continue innovating for the performance of our ingredients by addressing the needs of our markets.”

Bio-based personal care 

There has been a growing increase in bio-based ingredients in personal care products as consumers become more concerned with the environmental impact of products. 

BASF partnered with Slovenian-based biotech firm Acies Bio to develop fermentation technology to produce fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are critical components in surfactants, emulsifiers and other chemical ingredients, used widely in detergents. 

Sasol Chemicals launched a European-made, biobased emulsion stabilizing ingredient from rapeseed oil for personal care manufacturers looking for a more sustainable alternative to palm oil-based ingredients.

The Norwegian household product company Norwex released PowerZyme, a biodegradable enzyme-based laundry detergent. PowerZyme is USDA-certified, 91% biobased, and free from bleach, fillers, optical brighteners, synthetic dyes and fragrances.