Shiseido unveils brightening and covering solutions for skin discoloration

Shiseido has developed technology that enhances the penetration of its brightening ingredient, 4MSK, into the skin, potentially increasing its effectiveness in reducing dark spots, pigmentation, and freckles.

The innovation, 4MSK/fluid penetration technology, allows the solid ingredient 4-methoxy salicylic acid potassium salt to be liquefied and remain in fluid form after application. This allows approximately twice as much 4MSK to penetrate the skin compared to older formulas.

Alongside this finding, the company is adding to its skin discoloration offerings. Shiseido has announced a renewal of its Perfect Cover series, which provides makeup solutions for individuals with skin concerns like vitiligo and scars.

A brighter future

To develop the absorption technology, Shiseido took inspiration from “ionic liquids” — a chemistry concept where solid ingredients can be turned into liquids when combined with certain substances.

Shiseido scientists tested over 100 different ingredients and found that mixing 4MSK with trimethylglycine (a moisturizing ingredient) kept it in liquid form.

According to Shiseido’s study results, the technology showed promise in suppressing melanogenesis — the melanin production process that leads to dark spots. The ingredient also promotes the exfoliation of melanin deposits in the skin’s outer layer, helping fade existing spots faster.Mixing 4MSK with trimethylglycine kept it in liquid form.

Shiseido cited challenges during the research, noting that previous methods compromised the ingredients’ original functions and disrupted the skin’s barrier. The discovery that trimethylglycine and 4MSK combined in the right amounts can improve dermal penetration has instigated Shiseido to explore more diverse applications.

The technology could open new possibilities for future cosmetic formulations, offering a solution that balances the structural stability of active ingredients and their ability to permeate the skin. Shiseido has stated that it will continue applying this penetration-enhancing method to future skin care products.

Perfect Cover accessibility expansion

Adding to its skin pigmentation solutions, Shiseido has also announced that it updated its Perfect Cover series, a makeup line designed to help individuals with skin conditions such as birthmarks, vitiligo, and scars.

Marking the line’s 30th anniversary, Shiseido says the renewal introduces improved formulas and an expanded shade range to better meet diverse consumer needs.

The products are said to provide high-coverage with a natural-looking finish, addressing concerns like blue and red discoloration and skin tone changes from medical treatments. In a Shiseido survey conducted in multiple countries, skin discoloration, such as dark patches, was reported as one of the top appearance-related concerns for people undergoing cancer treatment.

The company says the new lineup includes 16 shades of foundation, improved SPF formulation for sun protection, and increased lasting wear of its loose powder, which it says can stay on for up to 12 hours. Shiseido also updated its cleansing oil for the Perfect Cover range for more effective makeup removal. 

Shiseido's updated Perfect Cover series.Shiseido’s commitment to addressing diverse beauty needs extends beyond product development, with the company also offering personalized beauty consultations through its Life Quality Beauty Centers.

Science-driven formulations

Shiseido’s advancements in both brightening skin care and inclusive makeup reflect a broader shift in the personal care industry toward science-driven innovation and social responsibility. Brands increasingly direct their focus toward high-performance formulations and consumers’ evolving needs, including those with medical or cosmetic concerns.

As the line between science and cosmetics blends, Estée Lauder recently partnered with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology to fund research on developing biodegradable materials for cosmetics that replace traditional plastic beads and use encapsulation technology to lock in nutrients like vitamin A.

Similarly, companies like FrieslandCampina Ingredients and Kenvue are tapping into consumer demand for skin barrier protection and hydration, leveraging science and technology to offer personalized, multi-mechanism approaches to address skin resilience.