Study reveals hibiscus leaf extract as promising natural skin care ingredient

06 Jul 2023 --- Korean scientists have found that Roselle extracts can be used as a natural source for skin care products. They investigated the potential of water extracts derived from Roselle leaves and callus cells for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes.

The researchers generated calluses from Roselle leaves and produced two different water extracts through heat extraction, dubbed Hibiscus sabdariffa plant extract (HSPE) and Hibiscus sabdariffa callus extract (HSCE). Researchers suggest that the two extracts from Roselle should be applied differently for cosmetics and pharmaceutical purposes.

The research can lead businesses in the personal care industry to adopt the ingredient in their skin care products as a natural and nourishing solution. The study is published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences.

Ingredient results
Roselle is a member of the genus Hibiscus in the family Malvaceae, is native to Africa and widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions, including India, Indonesia and Malaysia. The plant has been traditionally used in various food and beverage products.

Generation of callus from Roselle seedlings.High-performance liquid chromatography analysis showed that the two extracts have different components, with nucleic acids and metabolites such as phenylalanine and tryptophan being the most common components in both extracts.

In vitro assays demonstrated that HSCE has strong anti-melanogenic effects and functions for skin barrier and antioxidant activity. Transcriptome profiling of human skin cells treated with HSPE and HSCE showed significant differences, with HSPE having more effects on human skin cells.

Additionally, the scientists conducted transcriptome profiles of HSPE- and HSCE-treated human skin cells for the “first time.” The results revealed significant differences between human skin cells treated by the two extracts of Roselle, with HSPE having more of an effect on human skin cells compared to HSCE.

Industry applications
The most common components from both extracts were nucleic acids and metabolites such as phenylalanine and tryptophan. HSCE also has functions for skin barrier and antioxidant activity, but the concentration should be more than 10% to obtain a positive result.

The two different water extracts from Roselle have different components and effects on human skin cells so, the commercial uses of the two different water extracts from Roselle for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes should be applied differently.

Scientists selected the leaves of Roselle because generating calluses from Roselle flowers can be more challenging compared to using leaves.

Flower tissues, such as petals or reproductive structures, have a specialized cellular composition and are more differentiated than leaves. These specialized cells may be less responsive to in vitro culture conditions and callus induction due to developmental changes. Therefore, the researchers decided to study leaves as they have a higher propensity for callus formation in the study.

By Sabine Waldeck

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