Jojoba meets modern demands for multifunctionality and sustainability

Personal care brands are turning to jojoba oil and its derivatives once again as a renewed focus on multifunctionality, sustainability, and sensory refinement brings this plant back into the spotlight. Brands are responding to consumer demand for gentle, effective, and ethically sourced ingredients by incorporating jojoba oil across hair care, color cosmetics, and exfoliation.

Personal Care Insights speaks with Crown Laboratories and dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, US, about how jojoba continues to gain traction across personal care categories.

“Jojoba oil or Simmondsia Chinensis seed oil is one of the most versatile, tried and true natural oils used in formulations for quite some time. It offers a wide range of benefits to the skin, Francine Krenicki, SVP of product development at Crown Laboratories, tells us.

“It’s highly moisturizing and gives formulas their emollient properties and soft skin feel without being overly greasy.” 

Hydration and multifunctionality

Consumers are seeking formulations that offer long-lasting moisture and barrier support without heaviness. Jojoba-derived ingredients are gaining renewed interest due to their ability to mimic the skin’s natural oils while remaining lightweight and non-greasy.

“Jojoba oil is an emollient oil commonly used in moisturizers and cleansing oils. It has hydrating and skin-soothing benefits,” says Zeichner. 

Crown Laboratory’s Krenicki adds that, “because of its lightweight molecular structure, it is non-comedogenic and will not clog pores, unlike its heavier counterpart, coconut oil.”

Cargill developed its Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, a concentrated emollient based on hydrolyzed jojoba esters, to address the demand for effective, lightweight moisturizers. The ingredient supports skin hydration in combination with glycerin, improves barrier function, and contributes to smoother, firmer-looking skin.

Pigment performance

High-pigment makeup products, such as foundations, lipsticks, and eyeshadows, require ingredients that stabilize pigments and contribute to a smooth, non-greasy application. In this space, multifunctional esters are gaining attention for their ability to enhance both performance and sensorial quality.

Jojoba esters are particularly suited to color cosmetic formulations because they can wet pigments effectively while maintaining a lightweight, spreadable texture. Krenicki highlights one sensory advantage over other plant-based oils: “Jojoba oil imparts a neutral odor to formulas, unlike argan, which can be stronger and nuttier.”

Cargill developed its jojoba-derived ester, Floraesters 15, for color cosmetics and hybrid makeup-skincare formulations. According to the company, the ingredient helps improve pigment dispersion and stability while delivering a refined and cushiony skin feel.

Compared to traditional jojoba oil, Floraesters 15 offers reduced odor and improved resistance to oxidation, which is essential for maintaining a product’s shelf life, notes Cargill. The ingredient has a lower color profile, making it easier to incorporate into visually sensitive formulations without altering the final product’s tone.

Jojoba esters are useful in color cosmetic formulations as they wet pigments effectively while maintaining a lightweight, spreadable texture.Cargill reports that clinical testing of a lotion containing 2% Floraesters 15 showed improved skin smoothness and reduced scaliness after one hour of application. These results suggest added skin conditioning benefits, which may be valuable in color cosmetic formulations aiming to improve skin appearance alongside coverage. 

Jojoba in hair formulations

Hair care remains a key application area for jojoba-based ingredients. The oil’s structural similarity to the scalp’s natural sebum allows it to condition without weighing hair down or leaving residue.

“Jojoba oil has a great reputation for being multifunctional. Because of its lightweight feel, it’s easier to use all over the body from head to toe. It can be seen in facial and body skin, hair, scalp, and even nail care,” says Krenicki.

In hair care, jojoba derivatives are increasingly used to support color protection, improve manageability, and enhance conditioning effects. Cargill’s Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, for instance, includes film-forming properties that help maintain hair color and boost conditioning performance, particularly for treatments or leave-in products.

Barrier care and skin recovery

Skin barrier protection has become a central focus in personal care formulation. Barrier impairment is associated with dryness, irritation, and redness, prompting formulators to seek ingredients that hydrate and actively support the skin’s natural defenses.

Jojoba-derived esters are used in this space due to their structural similarity to skin sebum and their mild, non-comedogenic profile.

“Jojoba is suitable for all skin types, from oily and blemish-prone to dry and sensitive. Its composition is similar to our body’s natural skin oils, so it is very skin-friendly and compatible,” says Krenicki.

Cargill’s Floraesters 60 is a firm jojoba ester paste developed to help reinforce the skin barrier, reduce moisture loss, and alleviate visible redness. In clinical testing, a lotion containing 2% Floraesters 60 restored barrier function (measured by transepidermal water loss) more than a control lotion and one containing bisabolol (an anti-irritant).

The same study also found a reduction in erythema 24 hours after shaving, suggesting potential use in post-procedure or irritated skin care. Erythema is the medical term for skin redness, usually caused by increased blood-flow to the capillaries in response to irritation, inflammation, or injury.

Zeichner adds that jojoba oil may also contribute to skin defense through its ability to help manage microbial balance. “There is some data showing that it has antimicrobial properties,” he says.

In skin care, ingredients with antimicrobial effects can help reduce bacteria on the skin’s surface, which may support clearer skin and reduce the risk of infection, particularly beneficial in products formulated for acne-prone, irritated, or sensitive skin.

These properties also lend themselves to underarm care, where the skin is often exposed to irritation. “Jojoba oil in antiperspirants can help condition the skin and prevent irritation from other active ingredients,” Zeichner adds.

At Crown Laboratories, jojoba oil is featured in products targeted at sensitive and reactive skin.

“We have recently launched Sarna Sensitive Anti-Itch Lotion with pure Jojoba oil. It was a suitable addition due to its soothing properties and good tolerability even for sensitive and eczema-prone skin,” Krenicki adds.In hair care, jojoba derivatives are increasingly used to enhance conditioning effects.

Nature-derived alternatives

As microplastic regulations tighten across global markets, formulators increasingly turn to biodegradable, nature-derived alternatives that meet performance and environmental standards. 

To address this demand, Cargill developed Florabeads Jojoba, a physical exfoliant made from uniform, rigid microspheres of jojoba esters. Florabeads are designed for use in rinse-off formats such as scrubs, cleansers, and soaps.

“Florabeads offer mechanical exfoliation with improved safety and sensory benefits compared to irregular natural scrubs,” Cargill says.

Additionally, consumer preferences are shifting away from petroleum-derived ingredients in favor of renewable, plant-based sources. “When it comes to oils, consumers will gravitate more toward a natural plant-derived one over a petrolatum-based one like mineral oil,” says Krenicki.

Ingredient suppliers are driven to formalize ethical sourcing practices as consumer demand for transparency and environmental sustainability grows. Cargill’s response is its Jojoba Promise, a sustainable sourcing program built on resilient farming communities, sustainable water use, and full traceability.

Meeting this consumer demand remains a key goal for Crown Laboratories: “We aim to source sustainably and use batches that are virgin first-press oil from the seeds,” adds Krenicki.