Beauty companies turn to biodegradable ingredients for planetary and human health
Biodegradable cosmetic ingredients are becoming more popular amid climate change concerns and increased focus on how traditional personal care products impact environmental and consumer health. The industry’s move toward biodegradable ingredients has the potential to meet rising ecological demands while achieving sustainability goals.
We discuss the importance of rinse-off products, the science behind biodegradable materials, and the health benefits of swapping out chemicals for natural alternatives with industry experts.
Personal Care Insights speaks with Nida Napawan, global director of technical marketing and regulatory affairs at Kensing, and Raphaëlle Archambeaud-Sicot, chief sustainability officer at the L’Occitane Group. We further delve into the strategic advantages of producing and choosing biodegradable ingredients as consumers continuously search for clean and sustainable ingredients.
“The question of biodegradability in beauty products is crucial for rinse-off products like soaps, shampoos, conditioners, and sunscreens, which can contribute to pollution in aquatic environments when washed away,” says Archambeaud-Sicot.
Napawan from Kensing adds that the future of biodegradable boosters and active ingredients in the personal care industry looks promising.
“Over the past few years, significant progress has been made in developing biodegradable alternatives to traditional synthetic ingredients. Innovations such as plant-based surfactants and natural antioxidants have gained traction, offering both environmental benefits and enhanced performance.”
“With increasing consumer awareness and regulatory pressures, the industry is moving toward more sustainable and eco-friendly formulations,” says Napawan.
Archambeaud-Sicot stresses the importance of biodegradability in rinse-off beauty products.Biodegradable alternatives
According to Kensing, biodegradable beauty products are crucial for consumers, the planet, and the industry due to their circular nature.
“Consumers are responding to the growing demand for clean and green beauty products, which ensure safety and reduce exposure to harmful chemicals. Biodegradable ingredients reduce environmental impact by minimizing pollution and promoting renewable resources,” says Napawan.
She continues: “The industry helps brands differentiate themselves in a competitive market by aligning with sustainability goals and regulatory requirements.”
Archambeaud-Sicot adds: “Improving the biodegradability of our formulas is a powerful lever for driving sustainable innovation and meeting growing consumer and business partner expectations — especially from those who share our passion and commitment to more responsible and environmentally friendly cosmetics.”
Going bio for better health
Swapping synthetic antioxidants with natural Vitamin E can provide better health benefits, says Napawan. Natural Vitamin E is more bioavailable and effectively protects cells from oxidative stress. It can also replace synthetic antioxidants.
“Natural Vitamin E, derived from sunflower oil, offers superior antioxidant properties compared to synthetic versions,” explains Napawan.
“Using natural antioxidants such as Vitamin E can enhance product efficacy while being environmentally friendly, and plant-based moisturizers like phytosterols are essential for sustainable skin care formulations.”
Napawan says using natural Vitamin E can provide better health benefits, be better for the environment, and increase product efficacy.
Napawan stresses that certain active ingredients should be replaced by biodegradable alternatives for improved environmental sustainability, adding that the shift is more than just a trend. “It is necessary for the evolution of the personal care industry.”
Replacing synthetic surfactants with plant-based alternatives can reduce skin irritation and improve overall skin health. Napawan notes that transitioning to biodegradable surfactants like Cocamidopropyl betaine can significantly reduce environmental pollution.
“As the industry continues to innovate, we can expect more breakthroughs that will further enhance personal care products’ environmental and health benefits,” adds Napawan.
Science behind biodegradable cosmetics
We recently spoke with a study supervisor examining the potential future of cork powder in cosmetics. Cork is biodegradable and, in its current production, produces a large amount of waste. The byproduct from this waste has shown promising applications in cosmetic formulation to replace polyethylene beads (now banned in many countries), making it a circular alternative with lower ecological toxicity and a reduced carbon footprint.
“Cork powder is also particularly suitable for incorporation into facial or body exfoliating products due to its natural abrasive properties. Its unique structure enables gentle physical exfoliation that removes dead skin cells without causing skin irritation,” Isabel Almeida, study supervisor and professor of Chemistry and Cosmetic Technology at the University of Porto, Portugal, told Personal Care Insights.
The study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetics, also found that cork powder can be used for decorative makeup formulations such as foundations, bronzers, and concealers.
Another study published in the International Journal of Cosmetics explored the possibility of using food residues in cosmetics, especially bioactive compounds in skin care, due to their anti-aging components. The Serbian researchers exemplify natural ingredients as a “cornerstone for the industry.”
“In the context of cosmetic applications, the incorporation of compounds derived from agricultural by-products not only mitigates the disposal issues associated with these residues but also contributes to the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions associated with their decomposition or incineration,” notes the study.
Based on computational predictions, the researchers found that molecules in food, crop, and agricultural residue have the potential to improve skin appearance, increase firmness, and reduce wrinkles while contributing to the industry with sustainable and eco-friendly cosmetics solutions.
A recent study found that molecules in food, crops, and agricultural residue can potentially improve skin appearance.Climate change and industry action
Earlier this month, the Green Beauty Community Foundation and Green Spa Network Planet launched an initiative to encourage the beauty industry to take action against the climate crisis. The pledge helps professionals participate through communication and educational tools, guiding them to take the proper steps for sustainable business practices.
L’Occitane Group’s chief sustainability officer tells us how the company aims to minimize the environmental impact of formulations, including addressing chemical pollution, which is a significant pressure on ecosystems in land and aquatic environments.
“Many of our brands have long-established standards for their formulations, while others are developing formulation charters that include blacklists of certain ingredients,” details Archambeaud-Sicot.
“L’Occitane en Provence and Melvita have actively been working to improve the biodegradability of their formulas. The brands have committed that, by 2030, 100% of their rinse-off formulas will contain more than 95% biodegradable ingredients, in line with OECD 301/310 standards,” she concludes.
Earlier this year, Givaudan received validation from the Science-Based Targets Initiative (SBTi) for its aim to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2045. The SBTi is another organization offering guidance and tools on sustainable practices, specifically keeping global heating below “catastrophic levels” and reaching net zero by 2050.
Estée Lauder recently announced its research on biodegradable materials for cosmetics, exploring solutions for sun care ingredients. The company studied materials that break down into amino acids and brown sugars. According to the results, these sugar and amino acid particles could replace plastic beads used in beauty products, while encapsulating nutrients such as vitamin A, allowing them to be used in various cosmetic applications.
