Anti-aging skincare revelations include new niacinamide potencies and Moonlight Flower cryoextract
06 Mar 2023 --- The beauty industry has long maintained a hold in the anti-aging skincare positioning. Recently, however, this trend has reached new breakthroughs with the emergence of botanical blends, such as a rare cryoextract sourced from the Moonlight Flower said to possess restorative properties.
This new blend is just one of several innovations in the field, which include advancements in hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and retinol, among others. As consumers continue to seek out wrinkle-smoothing and skin-tightening topicals and ingestibles, the matured market for anti-aging skincare is still poised for significant growth.
Extract of the Moonlight Flower
At Paris Fashion week, Clarins recently unveiled a skincare line based on its Precious Skin Age-Delaying Technology, an “inspired by plants” blend of ingredients infused with a natural anti-aging cryoextract sourced from the Moonlight Flower.
The Moonlight Flower blooms one night a year, and only for a few hours, bearing rare flowers that are harvested by hand when they reach their full molecular richness and potency. It is rich in Gallic acid – a powerful antioxidant and soothing molecule.
The flowers are immediately frozen at -196°C (-320.8°F) to harness its cryoextract ingredient, which is exclusive to Clarins.
Based on years of research, the cryoextraction process preserves the flower’s most fragile, youth-promoting active ingredients, to visibly boost the skin’s resistance to aging, details the company.
According to Clarins’ research based on a consumer test of 113 women, 92% noted their skin looked “revitalized,” while 82% viewed their skin as “younger than its real age.” After 28 days, 99% felt their skin looked “more rested” after using the product for 28 days.
Aside from the Moonlight Flower cryoextract, Precious Skin Age-Delaying Technology includes three biomimetic anti-aging peptides, targets early lines and wrinkles and restores the smooth, plump, bouncy look of youth for skin that can appear “up to five years younger after three months of use.”
Potent niacinamide and hyaluronic acid synergies
Eau Thermale Avene has launched an anti-aging skincare line concentrated in pure hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, branded Hyaluron Activ B3.
Like most anti-aging products, the range targets firmer skin and corrected wrinkles. However, its level of niacinamide at 6% is deemed an “unprecedented concentration” in an anti-aging product.
Paired with pure hyaluronic acid, the niacinamide delays the onset of cellular senescence, slows the spread of aging in the skin and stimulates cellular regeneration for lasting results.
“The Hyaluron Activ B3 Renewal Firming Cream has a non-greasy finish and a natural tone up effect that illuminates the skin. Ideal for massaging in, or as a base for makeup. Using a jar that can be recycled and refilled,” details the company.
“With only eight ingredients, this serum has a texture with no fatty phase and no fragrances, which means it is also suitable for the fragile eye contour area. It can be used alone or in combination with other care products in a routine.”
To further reinforce the skin's nighttime repair process, the “cocooning” cream is enriched with haritaki extract and retinal – which is ten times more active than retinol – to stimulate cell renewal and activate collagen synthesis.
The formula also contains dextran sulfate, a microcirculation activator, to decongest and reduce puffiness and dark circles. The silky gel-cream texture provides a fresh effect. This fragrance-free product is suitable for the eye contour area, even sensitive ones, as well as the lip contour area.
Harnessing biotech for natural retinol
Givaudan has unveiled RetiLife, a 100% natural-origin retinol crafted through biotechnology. The product is marketed as a sustainable alternative to chemically synthesized retinol RetiLife with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy.
Branded RetiLife, the molecule sports an anti-aging claim and marks a “breakthrough evolution” for the cosmetic industry, according to its manufacturer.
“After years of research and development, we are thrilled to offer the most innovative and sustainable retinol on the cosmetic market and therefore open the door to new cosmetic applications,” comments Romain Reynaud, R&D director of Givaudan Active Beauty.
Reynaud highlights that the launch responds primarily to the robust consumer demand for cleaner beauty products.
Conventional retinol has been flagged for its drawbacks. Notably, it has been challenging to formulate due to its instability. The active molecule retinoic acid is not allowed in cosmetics.
Through the use of microorganisms, Givaudan’s pure retinol is produced in a natural carrier during a fermentation process from plant sugars and combined with natural antioxidants to ensure its protection, even at a very high concentration.
With 100% natural-origin content, including sunflower oil as a carrier, the composition of RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate.
The molecule is “identical” to its chemical counterpart, Givaudan highlights.
RetiLife will be introduced during in-cosmetics Global taking place in Barcelona, Spain, from March 28 to 30, which PersonalCareInsights will be reporting live from.
By Benjamin Ferrer
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