In-cosmetics Global 2026: BASF debuts collagen ingredients powered by AI and bioengineering

BASF has launched two active collagen ingredients that emphasize a comprehensive approach to skin rejuvenation at In-cosmetics Global 2026 in Paris, France. 

SkinNexus Collag3n is a bio-identical Collagen III fragment aiming to “redefine” collagen banking. The ingredient leverages bioengineering from Bota Biosciences, a global player in physical AI-driven biomanufacturing. 

The second, NeoHelix Regenerate, is a high-performance precision peptide that enhances the skin’s natural self-repair mechanisms for adaptive collagen renewal. It adapts concepts from the collagen-hybridizing peptide (CHP) technology from UD start-up, 3Helix, into cosmetics. 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin and provides a supportive scaffold that maintains skin integrity. Collagen levels naturally decrease with age, typically starting in the mid-to-late 20s, with natural production dropping by about 1% per year thereafter. By age 40, the decline becomes more significant, accelerating further for women in the five years following menopause. BASF’s innovations work to support and preserve this structural integrity. 

Personal Care Insights spoke to Florence Trombini, sales head Beauty Care Solutions at BASF, on the floor of In-cosmetics Global 2026, to unpack how the ingredients bring something new to the collagen market. 

Collagen banking ingredient

SkinNexus Collag3n is produced by vegan yeast fermentation and has a 100% human-identical sequence and biomimetic effects supporting the skin’s extracellular matrix. Trombini says that it is “the only one on the market which can really say that.”

She tells us the ingredient taps into the trend of collagen banking and “adds collagen to the skin for anti-aging efficacy.” The recombinant Collagen III fragment is said to be in line with growing consumer interest in proactive collagen banking to support healthy skin. 

The ingredient was also designed using AI. The discovery and biomanufacturing process of SkinNexus Collag3n was enabled through the collaboration with Bota Biosciences, a global player in physical AI-driven biomanufacturing. Their Saion AI Platform enables end-to-end experimental design and execution.

BASF screened 2,000 different collagen fragments and looked at which ones could bring the best efficacy within the skin.NeoHelix Regenerate boosts collagen renewal. 

“You need to have within this fragment some so-called hot spots that are actually integrin binding motifs, which will anchor your collagen within the integrin receptors and create a cascade of reactions. Not only do we need to have a sequence that has those hot spots, but we also need to have a sequence that can be produced via yeast fermentation, which is another challenge,” says Trombini. 

In a 3D dermis model, the ingredient was shown to support a healthy environment for full-spectrum collagen homeostasis (+48% Collagen I, +82% Collagen III, +71% Collagen V), supporting the foundation and appearance of the skin. 

“We have performed a comparison in vitro and clinical versus the main benchmark of the markets to also highlight its higher efficacy,” states Trombini. 

In clinical studies with female subjects aged 53–70, topical application of SkinNexus Collag3n demonstrated measurable improvements in skin tonicity and sagging appearance, and a visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles after four weeks, outperforming a collagen market benchmark ten times higher in concentration. 

SkinNexus Collag3n is engineered for industrial scalability and cost accessibility.

“Not only does it have higher efficacy, but it’s also a more democratized collagen because it is very cost-competitive against the solution that exists already on the market. We wanted to bring a solution that is scalable and that everyone can afford. That was also our mission when developing this new collagen,” explains Trombini. 

Pharma-inspiration for cosmetic industry

BASF’s NeoHelix Regenerate is a biomedical-inspired peptide engineered to support collagen and enhance the skin’s natural communication and self-repair, boosting the renewal processes that time and daily stressors diminish. It is touted as “especially” bioavailable to areas of damage, delivering deep cellular renewal where the skin needs it most. 

“NeoHelix Regenerate is based on the technology of collagen-hybridizing peptides. It’s a technology under development for medical applications, which we transferred to cosmetics,” says Trombini.

She tells us that if beauty companies want to be innovative, they need to find ways to go beyond what exists in cosmetics. “There are different industries that spark the idea — the medical industry is one of them.”

“In medical applications, collagen is also scrutinized because it has many roles in health. Anything that is developed for collagen for health reasons can find application in cosmetics.” 

“When we discovered this technology, we thought that the application was actually extremely interesting for cosmetics, even more because there’s no solution on the market that addresses damaged collagen and where you can really support collagen structure itself, in a way: collagen repair.”” SkinNexus Collag3n is designed to enact collagen banking for better skin health. 

In an in vivo study, several skin biopsies were taken from five female subjects aged 60–70 at the beginning and end of the application period. After 56 days of using NeoHelix Regenerate, results demonstrated a 41% reduction in damaged collagen. Additionally, these biopsies showed an ability to support the body’s own hyaluronic acid levels, rising by 65% over the study period. 

“NeoHelix Regenerate is extremely smart because it recognizes damaged collagen. The peptides hybridize themselves through damaged collagen, and then other parts in the peptide sequence, and then will act on biological mechanisms around the damaged collagen,” says Trombini.

In a separate in vivo study, BASF researchers further confirmed that NeoHelix Regenerate’s adaptive collagen rejuvenation delivered visible improvements in the appearance of skin thickness, tonicity, and forehead wrinkles. The new ingredient outperformed the comparative peptide benchmark in all measured parameters.

NeoHelix Regenerate is the first outcome of BASF’s innovation partnership with the US-based start-up 3Helix, innovating for personal care inspired by concepts from the proprietary CHP technology. This technology is based on short, single-stranded collagen-like peptides, enabling extraordinary anti-aging claims. 

“We always see collagen as a protein that creates the structure of the matrix, but it is also responsible for triggering the communication within all the matrix elements. And if you lose the integrity of this collagen, you also lose the communication,” explains Trombini.

“We are not only targeting damaged collagen, but we are also then rebooting the skin to recreate an environment where all the communication signals are working properly and triggering a full rejuvenation effect. 

Moving toward authenticity 

The two new collagen actives were presented under the theme of BASF’s “Beyond Beauty: Authentic+” concept. The chemical ingredients company says that in a world where digital beauty filters and AI tools can instantly create idealized images, it invites a return to authenticity. 

“At BASF, we believe personal care should empower people to feel comfortable in their own skin, beyond any digital ideal,” says Dr. Boris Gaspar, head of market development, Personal Care EMEA. “With Authentic+, we’re redefining beauty as something deeply personal and emotionally resonant, building on our longstanding expertise in skin sensorics and emotion-based methods.” 

Rather than competing with digital image manipulation, BASF spotlights personal care that nurtures the whole person, prioritizing holistic care for hair and skin, sensory rituals, and confidence-building experiences that honor individuality. The “+” stands for the emotional dimension: formulations designed not only for efficacy, but to spark genuine feeling, connection, and self-worth. 

Taps into the trend of beauty shifting away from impossible-to-achieve idealistic standards, to a more true-to-form representation across the industry. 

The claims presented in this article are based on European regulatory standards and are valid for the European market.