IFSCC Congress 2025: BASF reveals advancements in skin care formulation

BASF has announced it will present its findings on holistic microbiome science, bacteria’s role in skin aging, and retinol delivery systems at the upcoming International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress from September 15–18.

The congress’ theme is “The Future in Science,” and it will be hosted in Cannes, France.

Bacterial skin aging

BASF researchers have found that Corynebacteria impact skin health and aging. According to their studies, the bacteria’s distribution across the skin changes according to the skin’s age and sensitivity. This finding notes an increased presence of C. kroppenstedtii in older skin.

The study used droplet-based microfluidic technology to determine the antioxidant potential of Corynebacteria and its influence on collagen production.

C. accolens was found to contribute to collagen synthesis, while C. accolens and C. amycolatum promoted fibrillin-1, claudin-1, and filaggrin.

Microbiome formulations

BASF also studied the role galenic components, the non-active base ingredients in personal care formulations, play in microbiome-friendly formulations. 

According to their findings, these non-active ingredients can impact the microbial communities found on healthy skin, and the researchers therefore stress the importance of selecting these ingredients carefully. 

The researchers applied their findings in a study that tested rinse-off and leave-on formulations on humans. They found the mild formulations were effective in maintaining the microbiome’s balance and also met consumer expectations for moisturizing, cleansing, and sensorial properties. 

BASF links Corynebacteria strains to collagen production and skin aging.According to the company, the results pointed to holistic formulation possibilities for microbiome-friendly products beyond active ingredients. 

Topsy taurine

Taurine is an amino-sulfonic acid that helps maintain proper hydration and regulate mineral levels in cells. BASF studied the component’s potential to slow down the aging process and expand the skin’s health span.

The team investigated taurine and its transporter TauT, and identified a plant extract that can increase the component’s levels and simultaneously decrease senescence-associated skin phenotypes (SASPs).

SASPs are a diverse group of molecules released by senescent cells, including proteins, lipids, and extracellular vesicles. The release can be triggered by a DNA damage response that induces irreversible cell-cycle arrest.

By studying taurine’s impact on decreasing SASPs, BASF researchers propose that the modulation of taurine pathways paves the way for novel anti-aging skin care strategies.

Bio-based polymers

In another study, BASF and Stanford University, US, collaborated to research the role of bio-based polysaccharides in cosmetic formulations.

The partnership found that the ingredients promote skin hydration, improve formulations’ stability, and contribute to better emollient penetration into the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis.

In recent years, bio-based polymers have gained ground for their role in sustainable cosmetic formulations. The ingredients are derived from plant sources such as plants, algae, and microorganisms rather than fossil fuels like oil and gas.

Galenic base ingredients influence microbiome-friendly formulation design.Earlier this year, Cargill Beauty unveiled a tool that helps formulators replace petro-based polymers with naturally derived alternatives. However, the company told us that one-to-one replacements are “rarely possible.” Therefore, the tool leverages AI to discover which combinations of natural polymers can replace the petrochemicals in cosmetic formulations.

Receiving retinol

Retinol is one of the most widely used actives in skin care due to its effectiveness in reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture. However, despite its popularity, the ingredient is known to break down easily, lose effectiveness over time, and often causes irritation.

At the show, BASF scientists will present a novel delivery method they created using solid lipid particles (SLP). Testing showed that the system preserved 83% of retinol’s potency after four months, higher than a standard market benchmark. The system also boosted collagen I levels by 43%.

BASF claims that the SLP technology keeps retinol stable without the need for special packaging, offering formulators a more practical and consumer-friendly way to deliver visible anti-aging results.