Silab unveils natural cornflower active for dry skin and retinol irritation

Silab has launched Neolipyl, a natural active ingredient derived from cornflowers, to repair dry and damaged skin by restoring its lipid matrix. The ingredient is positioned for use in a wide range of skin care products to repair the skin barrier and enhance retinol formulations with a natural, science-backed approach.

While retinol remains widely used in anti-aging skin care, it can cause irritation. When used with retinol on normal skin, Neolipyl helps ease common side effects such as dryness, tightness, and redness.

At the same time, the ingredient maintains retinol’s anti-aging properties and enhances its positive effects on complexion radiance.

Dual functionality lipid repair

Neolipyl aims to address the breakdown of the skin’s natural protective barrier, which depends on a stable lipid matrix made up of fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol.

When the balance is disrupted, the skin becomes dry, rough, and more sensitive. Neolipyl helps restore that balance by increasing lipid production and optimizing structural alignment.

The launch follows Silab’s in-house modeling research using omics technologies, including lipidomics and optical biopsies, to simulate dry skin. Omics technologies help personal care companies understand how the skin functions at a molecular level and how ingredients affect those functions.

The results revealed that dry or retinol-exposed skin often has weakened lipid composition and disrupted structure. Neolipyl targets these disruptions by boosting the synthesis of epidermal lipids and improving their organization.

Cornflowers are the natural source of Neolipyl.Clinical studies on Caucasian and Asian volunteers with dry skin reportedly confirmed the ingredient’s benefits. Participants applying Neolipyl twice daily for 14 days said they experienced noticeable improvements in hydration, comfort, and skin smoothness.

According to Silab, the ingredient’s performance was comparable to niacinamide, which is known to improve the skin barrier.

Naturally compliant

Neolipyl is derived from the flowering tops of cornflowers grown in France by organic-certified suppliers.

Silab uses enzyme engineering to extract a proline-rich peptide fraction from the plant. The final product has a fully natural origin and complies with biodiversity and cosmetic regulations in the EU, US, China, and Japan.

The ingredient is offered in an aqueous solution and can be formulated at concentrations between 0.5% and 2%.

“Gold standard” downsidesNeolipyl works alongside retinol and restores skin hydration by repairing the lipid barrier.

The personal care industry is increasingly developing solutions to make retinol, touted as the “gold standard” in anti-aging skin care, more tolerable. The harsh ingredient can cause irritation or damage if misused or underestimated.

A recent UK study found that more than one in four tweens are using potent actives, including retinol. This prompted concern from dermatologists and consumer advocates about their long-term skin health and the need for stronger industry safeguards.

In response to growing demand for gentler options, Image Skincare recently launched a customizable retinol range with concentrations from 0.1% to 1.2%. The brand aims to make the ingredient more accessible to beginners and experienced users while minimizing the irritations it often poses.

Major ingredient suppliers are also responding to the need for gentler delivery systems, with BASF launching an encapsulated retinol designed to reduce irritation while boosting efficacy.

Additionally, Kenvue invested in stabilized retinol technologies to make the potent ingredient more tolerable and effective for long-term use across a wider range of skin types.