UK study finds rise of tweens using retinol, sparking skin health concerns

Over 25% of UK tweens use potent skin care ingredients like retinol and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), according to a recent quantitative survey of 1,500 UK-based tweens and their parents, commissioned by Pai Skincare. Using these active ingredients on underdeveloped skin may cause harm, as the skin lacks the barrier layer to protect against external stressors.

“Strong active ingredients like retinol and AHAs can disrupt the delicate skin barrier in younger users, leading to short term dryness and irritation but also potentially longer term sensitivity. With nearly half of UK tweens surveyed already experiencing reactions and 55% not checking ingredient labels, education is vital to help them make safe, informed choices from the start,” a spokesperson from the British Skin Foundation tells Personal Care Insights.

The study findings are sounding alarms across the skin care and dermatology community, which has been cautiously observing the growing influence of social media on young consumers.

“The industry needs to take greater responsibility through clearer ingredient labelling, more transparency about age suitability, and a shift in marketing that avoids glamourizing high-strength actives for young users. Education should be the focus,” the spokesperson says.

Research reveals a significant rise in the use of multi-step skin care routines among children, often guided by social media trends rather than scientific advice.

Nearly half of the surveyed tweens reported experiencing redness, itching, or irritation — signs commonly linked to misusing strong actives. Despite this, many remain unaware of the risks, with more than half saying they rarely, if at all, check product labels before use.

According to the survey, 41% of tweens, aged nine to 12, cited influencers from social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram as key decision-makers in their skin care purchases. Meanwhile, 58% of respondents said they receive skin care products as gifts, suggesting that family and friends also play a central role in shaping the young consumers’ habits.

Unarmed tween skin

Based on the concerning insights from the survey, Pai Skincare led a small-scale clinical study involving 15 participants: tween and teen sisters and their mothers. This study compared skin microbiomes — a key indicator of barrier resilience and immunity — to understand how underdeveloped tween skin is.

Tweens cited social media influencers as key decision-makers in their skin care purchases.The study found that tween skin is notably underdeveloped compared to teenagers and adults. In particular, younger children showed lower levels of Cutibacterium acnes, a beneficial bacteria associated with healthy sebum production and barrier protection.

This difference suggests that pre-teen skin lacks some natural defense mechanisms needed to cope with environmental stressors, including the use of exfoliating acids and retinoids.

The British Skin Foundation’s consultant dermatologist, Dr. Zainab Laftah, comments: “Skin care is not one-size-fits-all, and our skin barrier changes significantly through puberty. The skin barrier of children aged nine to 12 is not fully developed, making it far more sensitive and susceptible to damage than adult or even teen skin.”

“Introducing powerful active ingredients at such a young age can disrupt this barrier, leading to increased sensitivity, irritation, and inflammation. This is why educating both parents and tweens is more critical than ever,” she adds.

Call for accountability

To help navigate the growing confusion, Pai Skincare has launched the #StaySkinSHARP campaign in partnership with the British Skin Foundation.

“The guide is designed to empower parents and tweens with practical, expert-backed advice on what to avoid and how to build a simple, safe routine. Using the SHARP acronym, it breaks down ingredient awareness in a way that is easy to understand and act on,” the spokesperson explains.

The study found that 58% of tweens trust their families most for skin care advice. Therefore, the campaign encourages parents to remain educated. “This campaign is not about banning products or lecturing parents, but about helping young people make confident, informed decisions that protect their skin long-term,” the spokesperson concludes.

Still, there is a pressing need to counterbalance the increasing influence of digital trends, particularly when some children report being unaware of what ingredients their products contain.The #StaySkinSHARP campaign encourages parents to remain engaged in their children’s skin care decisions.

In California, US, Assemblymember Alex Lee recently proposed a new bill that would ban the sale of anti-aging products — containing ingredients such as retinol, AHAs, and vitamin C — to minors. He said the beauty industry has failed to take real action despite knowing these products are not meant for children.

The rise of “Sephora kids,” which refers to teens and tweens purchasing and using skin care and makeup designed for adults, has sparked debates across the industry. The conversation continues to draw attention on platforms like TikTok, as the relationship between social media trends, beauty marketing, and consumer safety unfolds. 

Children delving into mature skin care has raised an ethical question of how the beauty industry should navigate the line between staying relevant online and protecting vulnerable consumers.