Cosmetic Business 2025 live: Croda actives tap skin-brain axis and biomimetics

Croda Beauty is showcasing a neurocosmetic skin-longevity active and a biomimetic ceramide for hair care at the Cosmetic Business trade show in Munich, Germany, which ends today.

The two ingredients, Zenakine and Sphingo’Hair Drypure, reflect the growing demand for scientifically grounded formulations that promote emotional well-being, skin longevity, and scalp-hair barrier reinforcement.

Personal Care Insights reports live from the show floor on how Croda uses neurocosmetic and biomimetic science to support emotional balance, sleep quality, and visible skin and hair health.

Zenakine is designed to modulate the skin-brain axis, helping boost mood and sleep quality through topical application.

In personal care, biomimetics refers to formulating ingredients replicating the body’s natural repair and regeneration processes. Sphingo’Hair Drypure applies this approach by mimicking natural skin lipids to strengthen the scalp and hair, replenishing long-chain ceramides that decline with age. 

Boosting mood and sleep

Zenakine is derived from a biofermented lysate and positioned as the first cosmetic active with clinical evidence of improving sleep quality through skin application. It targets the skin-brain axis — the link between psychological stress and skin condition — by stimulating mood-enhancing messengers.

“Zenakine is our very first active where you can measure improvement in sleep quality through topical application,” Dr. Larissa Legewie, technical marketing manager of Actives at Croda Beauty, tells Personal Care Insights.

Zenakine helps the skin look more rested and refreshed.“It stimulates happy messengers in the skin, and we have data that shows it gives people a feeling of happiness and improves emotional balance.”

In clinical testing, Zenakine increased reported happiness by 13.5%, improved perceived lifting by 13.3%, and enhanced sleep quality by 11.3% after two weeks.

Other analyses also showed the regulation of skin circadian genes, such as CRY2, FOXN3, and SIRT1, which are involved in repair, stress regulation, and cellular metabolism.

“It also helps reduce forehead wrinkles,” says Legewie. “We now have new cosmetic data that shows how it supports overall skin longevity — not just looking good now, but keeping the skin resilient over time.”

Zenakine is water-soluble and suitable for serums, sprays, overnight masks, and other nighttime or anti-stress formulations. It is COSMOS-approved, vegan-suitable, RSPO-certified, and listed on China’s IECIC regulatory database.

Biomimetics for scalp and hair

Sphingo’Hair Drypure is a biofermentation-derived ceramide NP enriched with long-chain fatty acids. These structural lipids decline with age, weakening the skin barrier and hair fiber integrity. Croda’s ingredient is designed to replenish these lipids to restore hydration, smoothness, and strength.

“This is ceramide NP, but not a regular one,” explains Legewie. “It is biofermentation-derived and contains long-chain fatty acids. These are really beneficial to restoration because they help reinforce both the scalp barrier and hair structure.”Hair looks smoother and shinier after using Sphingo’Hair Drypure.

In a two-week in vivo study, the ingredient reduced scalp temperature by 11.84 degrees Celsius — a sign of reduced inflammation — and increased hydration by 35.6%. It also decreased visible flaking, supporting its function as a scalp-soothing and barrier-repairing agent.

“We’ve shown that it strengthens the skin in the scalp area, improves hydration, and boosts hair gloss,” says Legewie. “We have data for both skin and scalp, and the results are very promising.”

Ex vivo tests showed a 78.6% increase in hair gloss and more than a 5% increase in moisture content. The company scanned electron microscopy and confirmed visible cuticle alignment and smoothness improvements.

“The difference is clear,” says Legewie. “You can see the hair fibers look smoother and shinier. The cuticle structure improves, which means better manageability and less breakage.”

Sphingo’Hair Drypure is oil-soluble and suitable for various formats, including scalp serums, conditioners, beard care products, and leave-on treatments. It is preservative-free, EO/PO-free, COSMOS approved, and IECIC listed.

Event attendees can explore Croda Beauty’s actives today at Cosmetic Business (Hall 2, Stand D11).