CTPA calls for animal-free safety tests and return of tax-free shopping in new manifesto ahead of UK general elections

Dr. Emma Meredith, director-general at CTPA.

22 Feb 2024 --- As the UK gears up for its general election, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) is making waves with its first manifesto that urges the incoming government to craft a strategy for the cosmetics and personal care industry. Key talking points include suggestions for animal-free safety testing methods and the return of tax-free shopping in the UK to stimulate tourist spending.

CTPA’s manifesto outlines 12 requests based on the “pillars” of essentiality, regulation, science, sustainability and business. The document also underscores the importance of government recognition of the personal care industry, highlighting its key role in health, hygiene and well-being.

The association advocates for preserving high regulatory standards and embracing science-led decision-making, with aims of positioning the UK as a leader in modern scientific practices.

Moreover, CTPA underscores the industry’s commitment to sustainability, emphasizing the need for its involvement in environmental initiatives. CTPA calls for business enhancements such as tax-free shopping and a regulatory understanding of global supply chains.

CTPA’s manifesto outlines 12 requests based on the “pillars” of essentiality, regulation, science, sustainability and business.Dr. Emma Meredith, director-general at CTPA, speaks to Personal Care Insights about the manifesto, UK regulations, animal-free testing and climate change initiatives.

In what ways does the CTPA’s Cosmetics Industry Manifesto promote the importance of the personal care and cosmetics industry to society and the economy?
Meredith: The cosmetics, personal care and beauty sectors are essential. The industry makes products that touch the lives of millions of people every day and which are absolutely critical to our daily lives, including sun protection, oral care (including toothpaste), soap, antiperspirants and deodorants, shampoos and conditioners, hand washes and skin care, as well as color cosmetics, hair styling and grooming products for both women and men.

Research conducted in 2022 for CTPA showed that 85% of UK adults class cosmetics and personal care products as essential to their lives; the figure is even higher among women, at 94%.

In 2022, the UK industry was valued at over £8.9 billion (US$11.2 billion) at retail sales value, growing 5.4% over 2021. Our sector employs people across manufacturing, design, R&D, marketing, sales, export and import, retail and services, including hair and beauty salons and spas. In 2022, the personal care industry supported a total GDP contribution of £24.5 billion (US$31 billion.)

These compelling figures, highlighted in the manifesto, emphasize the essentiality of the industry’s products and services and underpin CTPA’s ask that UK government policy recognizes the essentiality and economic significance of our industry and address its needs accordingly, enabling it to continue contributing to the UK’s scientific leadership, diverse workforce, economy and growth.

Regarding the UK Cosmetics Regulation and UK REACH, what steps does the manifesto suggest taking to guarantee the maintenance of strict safety regulations?
Meredith: The UK Cosmetics Regulation (UKCR) is an excellent framework that is well understood by industry, regulators and international trading partners, which ensures consumer safety while enabling the success of the UK’s cosmetics sector.

The UKCR applies to all cosmetic products placed on the UK market, meaning these rules enable UK consumers access to safe and effective products while creating a level playing field for all companies placing cosmetic products on the UK market. It is, therefore, vitally important that this risk-based, sector-specific approach that regulates the safe use of cosmetic ingredients and finished cosmetic products is maintained.CTPA urges eturn of tax-free shopping in the UK to stimulate tourist spending.

The UK’s cosmetics industry strongly supports the need for a UK REACH system to protect the environment and human health. High standards in the industry and the regulation of chemicals are essential. CTPA is asking that UK REACH, including the welcome news of an alternative UK REACH model, achieve these objectives while avoiding the excessive costs, bureaucracy and unnecessary burdens on business that could lead to a reduced investment in the UK.

What measures does the manifesto suggest for incorporating animal-free methods into chemical safety assessments and how does science-led decision-making come into play in determining the safety of cosmetic ingredients?
Meredith: Cosmetics and personal care products are fundamentally based on science. CTPA is asking that decisions on the safe use of cosmetic ingredients, finished cosmetics, and personal care products continue to follow a robust science-led and risk-based approach.

The UK is renowned for its risk-based approach, and the UKCR has consumer safety at its core, requiring an in-depth safety assessment to be carried out on each cosmetic product before it is made available for use by the consumer. It is important that these principles are maintained.

The UKCR controls what may or may not be put into a cosmetic product, and it is imperative that the process for ingredient scrutiny is transparent, consistent and based on sound science to provide a stable, consistent and predictable regulatory framework.

CTPA urges all future UK governments to rigorously uphold the ban on testing cosmetic products and their ingredients on animals.All future UK governments must rigorously uphold the ban on testing cosmetic products and their ingredients on animals under the UKCR. We ask that the government publish a strategy that establishes a commitment to integrate animal-free methods into the safety assessment of chemicals. This will promote and streamline the use and regulatory acceptance of these methods in the UK, helping the UK to become a world leader in modern, animal-free scientific methods.

Can you describe the manifesto’s suggestions for advancing climate change, biodiversity and packaging-related sustainability within the cosmetics and personal care sector?
Meredith: The cosmetics and personal care industry is committed to acting within the planet’s limits, and the industry is also actively contributing to solving the world’s challenges. CTPA has a Sustainability Strategy — Driving Towards a Net Positive Cosmetics Industry: Environmental impacts of production and the supply chain, waste and end-of-life fate and well-being, which addresses the challenges of climate change, biodiversity and packaging. https://www.ctpa.org.uk/sustainability-matters

The manifesto has particular requests of the government about new UK laws on extended producer responsibility (EPR) for packaging, which we welcome, but requests that producers be central to the operation and design of the scheme to achieve efficiency and deliver the desired environmental outcomes. Also, monies raised from EPR must be used to improve a harmonized infrastructure for recycling across the UK.

What are the main business-related recommendations made in the manifesto, and how does it aim to improve the competitiveness of the UK cosmetics industry?
Meredith: CTPA is requesting the return of tax-free shopping in the UK to boost tourism spending in stores and airports. We believe this will attract shoppers to the UK. It will encourage brands to do business and invest in the UK. It will also help UK companies and retailers when they still feel the pressures and impacts of Brexit, COVID-19 and the cost-of-living crisis.

In the long term, it will increase sales in the UK and could ultimately benefit the Exchequer through higher business sales, employment and corporation tax. I have written to the chancellor, urging him to change the budget on March 6.

By Venya Patel

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