Esse debuts Afyren petrochemical-free propionic acid in microbiome skin cream

Microbiome cosmetics brand Esse Skincare has launched the “world’s first” product formulated with 100% natural propionic acid, through its partnership with French biotech company Afyren. 

Afyren produces the key ingredient in the Esse Barrier Rescue moisturizer through natural fermentation at its Afyren Neoxy plant in Carling Saint-Avold, France. The ingredient is fully bio-based and COSMOS-certified.

Until now, propionic acid has been mainly made from petrochemical sources on an industrial scale. Afyren’s process promises a sustainable alternative.

“This partnership shows how biotechnology can unlock new opportunities for both performance and sustainability in cosmetics, bringing tangible benefits for people and the planet. We are very proud to see the first products now reaching consumers,” says Joachim Merziger, chief commercial officer at Afyren.

Propionic acid is a short-chain fatty acid, naturally occurring in the body, and essential for maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.

According to Afyren, emerging research suggests the compound helps control inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, and keep microbial balance. In doing so, it deeply hydrates the skin and supports its resilience.

Afyren partnered with the South African-based cosmetics company in December 2025, offering Esse fully natural cosmetic solutions, said to deliver enhanced skin care performance.

Esse’s Barrier Rescue moisturizer uses 100% natural propionic acid produced through Afyren’s fermentation technology.The Esse Barrier Rescue moisturizer is touted as deeply nourishing. Its formula combines propionic acid and ceramides, which work together to relieve “extremely dry and reactive skin.” The product is also said to help reinforce the skin’s natural ecosystem.

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Afyren supplies biobased, low-carbon ingredients to cosmetics manufacturers. The company says that its Neoxy plant is the first commercial-scale biorefinery capable of producing a range of organic acids, and that its fermentation technology uses a fully circular operating model.

Together, Esse and Afyren aim to shape a novel generation of skin care products that merge biotechnology, sustainability, and skin science — an aspiration many personal care players are increasingly doubling down on.

Across the board, multiple cosmetics companies are opting for biotech alternatives to traditionally petrochemical-derived ingredients, as regulators push for cleaner ingredient lists.

Chemicals manufacturer Evonik, for example, recently partnered with Scottish greentech company Celtic Renewables to produce its Ecohance Soft Bol emollient. The ingredient is positioned as an alternative to traditionally petrochemical-derived emollients and is instead made from upcycled scotch whiskey byproducts.