In-cosmetics Global 2025 live: Mibelle tackles pyroptosis with new ingredient

Mibelle Biochemistry Group presents its AmelioSense, an ingredient targeting skin irritation, redness and pyroptosis — a programmed inflammatory cell death recently linked to rosacea. It contains natural extracts of shepherd’s purse mixed with three antioxidants.

At the showroom, Personal Care Insights speaks with Dr. Franziska Wandrey, head of research at Mibelle Biochemistry Group, about the company’s ingredient targeting skin inflammation. 

“It’s for skin with red flushes, that is prone to rosacea, and has underlying inflammation, irritation, itching, etc. The ingredient is a mix of different extracts, including a plant extract from shepherd’s purse — a known remedy in ancient times for wound healing and to stop bleeding — mixed with a potent antioxidant complex, encapsulated for better penetration into the skin.” 

The company details that the botanical shepherd’s purse has been used for centuries to refresh irritated skin. Its combination with antioxidants stops inflammation and pyroptosis while creating a calm, balanced skin tone and reducing redness. 

“The product is a water-soluble powder so that it can be formulated in all emulsions, creams, serums, lotions, etc.,” details Wandrey. 

The company has also introduced a “prototype formulation,” a serum with AmelioSense. The other ingredients in the serum are squalane and glycerin, rice germ, almond, and jojoba oils. The company describes the combination as a “balance between skin barrier-strengthening care and a light formulation.”

The prototype formula is fragrance-free to suit sensitive skin types.

Explaining pyroptosis

Wandrey explains the active ingredient “tackles the mechanism pyroptosis, which is not yet commonly known.” She says the study is “the first of its kind to look so far into pyroptosis and its connection to rosacea.” 

The product is a water-soluble powder so that it can be formulated in all emulsions, creams, serums, lotions, etc.Pyroptosis is a programmed inflammatory cell death recently linked to rosacea. She continues: “It’s a form of cell death, but the cells don’t just die — they explode. That’s where the ‘pyro’ comes from [from pyroptosis]. These bursting cells lead to more inflammation and irritation in the skin.”

Wandrey explains that recent research linking pyroptosis with rosacea inspired the project and led to the development of AmelioSense.

“If we can block the pyroptosis and stop the spreading of irritation, then we can also stop skin redness and irritation.”

She details the results of the clinical studies after two months of application. “There was a reduction in redness, fine capillaries in the skin on the cheek, and blood flow.”

The volunteers in the study tested the product on half of their faces. Wandrey details that the results were visible, as the half where no products were tested did not show the same improvements.

Tackle inflammation at the root

Rosacea makes blood vessels more visible and causes discomfort by creating bumps or pimples on the skin that flare up as red. According to the National Rosacea Society, the condition is a common chronic skin condition that affects millions and takes shape in different forms, making it difficult to target with a specific skin care product.The volunteers in the study tested the product on half of their faces.

Rosacea and pyroptosis are both inflammatory skin conditions that may be triggered by various factors, such as genetics, foods, stress, UV radiation, or microorganisms, says Mibelle Biochemistry. 

The company explains pyroptosis as an amplifier that makes rosacea worse. “What makes sense in healthy skin leads to an unwanted worsening of inflammation in rosacea.” 

Personal Care Insight previously reported about the importance of future studies to distinguish a more precise understanding “on a molecular basis” of rosacea and address the root cause of the disease in the near future, as current available data on safety and efficacy is still limited.

Furthermore, other industry players have recently highlighted the need to address the root causes of skin health by promoting rejuvenation at a cellular level using botanical infusions.

Other recent news from Mibelle Biochemistry tackling skin inflammation highlighted botanicals as “becoming a promising tool in the growing longevity and healthy aging market.”

With live reporting from Sabine Waldeck at In-cosmetics Global 2025, in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.