Korean pharma giants push derma cosmetics for piece of K-beauty pie

Derma cosmetics are emerging as a next big growth engine for K-beauty, and today, at the Global K Beauty Conference 2026 in Seoul, South Korea, industry representatives are discussing how to tap into it. The trend is already translating into market activity, with some Korean pharmaceutical companies introducing their own derma brands. Debut strategies in the space appear to be more aggressive than traditional pharmacy launches. 

K-beauty brands have increasingly leaned into clinically-inspired formulations and dermatological research, which has helped drive growth in the country’s derma cosmetics segment.

Now, a slew of Korean drug manufacturers are aiming to translate their pharmaceutical research, proprietary ingredients, and technologies originally developed for medical applications into cosmetic success.

Companies such as Dongkook Pharmaceutical, Daewoong Pharmaceutical, Yuhan Corporation, and Hanmi Science are tapping their expertise in wound care, growth factors, vitamin research, and drug development to support skin care claims. Each has launched their own derma cosmetic brand, donned on international store shelves.

At the Global K Beauty Conference, which wrapped up earlier today, industry representatives explored how K-beauty can sustain long-term growth as it expands into derma cosmetics, beauty devices, and medical beauty.

“K-beauty has already become an industry that global consumers are paying attention to,” said Jang Seung-joon, vice chairman at Maekyung Media, the event organizer. “But it is more important from now on.”

Science-backed efficacy

The South Korean government and players in the cosmetic industry have had multiple events to further explore key growth opportunities. Following one such event, the country’s cosmetic sector has committed to doubling down on advanced manufacturing practices to enhance speed-to-market, after having identified response time to consumers’ cosmetic demands as a key lever.

However, recent developments have indicated that faster cosmetic launches aren’t always beneficial. Earlier this year, multiple international K-beauty recalls and legal violations headlined, raising questions about whether the category was expanding faster than it could handle. 

At today’s conference in Seoul, Rodrigo Pizza, CEO of L’Oreal Korea, said that K-beauty cannot rely solely on fast trend responses. Instead, to take the next step, he said K-beauty must invest in scientific R&D and build long-term brand competitiveness.

Centellian24 and its flagship Madeca Cream have helped position Dongkook Pharmaceutical as a key player in Korean derma cosmetics. (Image credit: Centellian24)The message signals that the K-beauty industry’s future lies in products with proven efficacy and research validation — enter the derma cosmetics segement.

Korean drug manufacturers, once content to sell cosmetics through pharmacies, are now launching independent beauty brands with global ambitions.

According to local Korean reporting, pharmaceutical big dogs are hosting pop-up events in trendy, urban neighborhoods, selling through beauty retailers like Olive Young, permeating online platforms, and expanding internationally.

Drugging derma?

Dongkook Pharmaceutical has emerged as a case study for pharmaceutical companies expanding into skin care. Its derma brand Centellian24 has generated over ₩1 trillion (US$663 million) in cumulative sales, while the company’s Cosmetics and Consumer Healthcare divisions accounted for 41.6% of its Q1 revenue. 

Centellian24’s lineup is built on ingredients from Madecassol, a wound care product. The formulas seem to resonate with international audiences, as Q1 exports jumped 332% year-on-year.

Other drugmakers are on the archetype’s heels. Daewoong Pharmaceutical is expanding Easydew. Dong-A Pharmaceutical is promoting Fation, and Dongwha Pharm has its Fusidyne line. 

Meanwhile, Hanmi Science recently launched its Adesii derma brand and held a first consumer pop-up event in Seongsu-dong, dubbed the “Brooklyn of Seoul.” The event reportedly drew around 1,800 visitors, and local Korean reporting points toward a heightening demand for medical-grade skin care.

Korean drugmakers are bringing medical-grade research and clinical expertise into their skin care spinoffs.Beyond local Korean reporting, the push is increasingly hitting the global stage. Olive Young recently opened its first US brick-and-mortar stores in California, US. The locations give Korean derma brands a new offline route to consumers across the pond.

Justifying claims

Multiple players are simultaneously rushing into derma cosmetics, and with many making similar efficacy claims and using the same ingredient buzzwords, oversaturation may emerge as their biggest conundrum.

Ingredients like polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), epidermal growth factor (EGF), and collagen are in high global demand, but consumers are becoming more selective. 

Experts from Shed and Gelita previously told Personal Care Insights that, as popular skin care ingredients appear in an expanding range of products, brands are increasingly expected to clarify why it is included and how it contributes to the overall performance of the product.

Moreover, McKinsey’s State of Beauty 2025 report said that consumers are “value conscious, skeptical of hype, and laser focused on whether products deliver.”

According to the report, performance was the leading reason for product purchases at 38%, followed by the desire to recreate a trend (37%), then price (33%), and value (18%).

For Korean drug manufacturers, the challenge is no longer launching a derma brand, but rather proving they can compete on beauty’s evolving terms.