Lucas Meyer Cosmetics surfactant-free emulsifier taps into neurocosmetic and sensitive skin trends

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics releases an oil-in-water surfactant-free emulsifier and encapsulation system based on Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ quinoa starch technology that creates a “positive mental reaction.”

Pickmulse promises an “improved tactile experience,” with scientific studies suggesting it stimulates well-being and reward areas in the brain, aligning with emerging market trends in neurocosmetics. 

“Pickmulse offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics that we’ve designed to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” says Isabelle Lacasse, head of Global Marketing, Product Line Management & Formulation Lucas Meyer Cosmetics at Clariant.

“This next-generation two-in-one product is a balance of formulation needs and skin health and feel.”

The Swiss multinational specialty chemical company says consumers are increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and maintaining skin microbiota. It claims its surfactant-free emulsifier preserves skin balance compared to traditional emulsifiers while maintaining sensory quality.

Formulating solutions

The small size of quinoa starch particles allows the product to be easily formulated as emulsions. Pickmulse is marketed to “address the growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally-friendly cosmetic components.”

Experiments were conducted during the formulation of the emulsifier and encapsulation system. It was found that Pickmulse does not destabilize the outermost layer of the skin, assuring “high skin tolerance.” When emulsified with 20% oil, Pickmulse can furthermore be used to create varied textures, from sprays to creams, under cold conditions.

Quinoa starch has swelling properties that facilitate the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an encapsulation system, Pickmulse increases the stability of sensitive ingredients and enhances the sensory feel of ingredients in the formulation.

The Clariant company says the solution is cost-effective and user-friendly for in-house encapsulation, exhibiting a loading capacity (up to 25%) and a demonstrated efficacy to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics says it responsibly sources organic quinoa from fields in Bolivia, South America.