Pilot expands portfolio with bio-based replacements for D5 ahead of EU ban

Pilot Chemical Company has signed an exclusive global licensing agreement with RiKarbon for its UpSycal BA14 and BA17 emollients, which are designed as drop-in replacements for D5 in personal care formulations.

The move expands Pilot’s personal care portfolio as the cosmetics industry accelerates efforts to replace D5 ahead of upcoming European restrictions.

D5, also known as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, is a volatile silicone widely used in personal care products as an emollient. It gives formulations a smooth, silky feel and quick-drying effect. It is commonly used in hair conditioners, deodorants, antiperspirants, and skin care due to its spreading properties.

However, for humans, D5 is linked to reproductive and endocrine risks. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) classifies it as a substance of very high concern, citing evidence that it can interfere with fertility and reproduction.

The EU will expand its ban on D5 in 2027, restricting concentrations above 0.1% in all cosmetics.

UpSycal technologies for personal care

The UpSycal ingredients offer performance benefits for applications such as skin care, hair care, and color cosmetics.

According to RiKarbon, the emollients can be produced with up to 100% biobased carbon derived from agricultural waste and non-edible feedstocks. Pilot plans to integrate the ingredients into its personal care range by 2026.

“These advancements bring unique and versatile emollient products and drop-in D5 replacements to our portfolio and also reinforce our commitment to providing sustainable and high-performance solutions to our customers,” says Graeme Biggin, VP of Growth and Innovation at Pilot.

EU regulators are phasing out D5 in products like soaps and shampoos due to reproductive health and child development risks.RiKarbon founder and CEO Basudeb Saha adds: “Pilot’s expertise and extensive network in the personal care industry make them an ideal partner for this endeavor.”

D5 disruption

Pilot’s agreement with RiKarbon positions its personal care portfolio within a broader market trend toward sustainable, compliant D5 alternatives.

Last year, the ECHA flagged ongoing compliance issues. During an inspection, authorities found that 6% of tested cosmetics contained restricted chemicals such as D4 and D5 siloxanes and perfluorinated compounds. Enforcement actions were taken to remove the products from the market.

Amid the increasing regulatory scrutiny and anticipation of the 2027 EU ban, suppliers are investing in new technologies to mitigate the disruption and accommodate the new requirements.

In July, Brenntag partnered with Seneca Polytechnic in Canada on a research program to evaluate silicone alternatives for hair care, skin care, deodorant, and antiperspirant formulations.

OQ Chemicals also launched a biomass-balanced ester emollient claimed to outperform D5 in sun care and deodorant applications.