“Underestimated issue” in cosmetology? Vitamins in skincare linked to allergic contact dermatitis
24 Nov 2022 --- Due to their antioxidant properties, certain vitamin derivatives have been synthesized for inclusion in many cosmetics, which have led to increasing incidences of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) cases, according to new research.
The study, published in the Wiley Online Library, suggests that ACD cases related to vitamins is still an “underestimated issue in cosmetology,” as many vitamins are considered “natural” and therefore “safe” ingredients.
On the contrary, it outlines that according to current literature, almost all vitamins contained in topical products are able to induce allergic reactions – with the exception of vitamin B2 and vitamin B9.
The researchers note that patch tests are not standardized, which often presents difficulties in diagnosis.
“Therefore, the present review may be helpful to provide an insight into the sensitizing role of at least certain vitamins and may also offer possible patch test alternatives for definitive diagnosis,” they comment.
Spread of vitamin intake-related dermatitis
Vitamin derivatives are currently available in cosmetics and in food excipients. Vitamins A, E, B3, B5, B6 and C and their derivatives are commonly used for their antioxidant and anti-aging properties in cosmetology.
Due to their widespread use of vitamins, ACD to certain supplements is rapidly increasing, the new study warns.
Notably, the authors flag that ACD caused by topical use of cosmetics containing vitamin derivatives or their pure forms is rarely reported.
However, unlike hydro soluble vitamins (B1-B9, B12 and C), which are more likely to induce immediate-type reactions, ACD is more frequently induced by fat soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K).
“Vitamins can be responsible for diffuse ACD, together with local flare-ups after systemic intake and systemic allergies. The latter imposes a burden on these patients since vitamins are contained in food supplements and tablets,” state the researchers.
Notably, the authors flag that ACD caused by topical use of cosmetics containing vitamin derivatives or their pure forms is rarely reported.
“Besides ACD, vitamins can also cause contact urticaria, anaphylaxis, photoallergic reactions, erythema multiforme-like eruptions, airborne contact dermatitis and atopic dermatitis-like lesions,” they outline.
Synthetic vs natural vitamins
Some vitamins occur naturally in food and each vitamin has been identified and industrially produced, both for pharmaceutical purposes and food supplementation, although commercial vitamins are not completely identical to their natural forms.
“Synthetic vitamins offer many advantages compared to natural ones, as they can be administered not only orally but also intramuscularly or intravenously,” the researchers highlight.
“Furthermore, synthetic vitamins can be stored for longer periods and are not influenced by food deterioration.”
Industry developments
Vitamins will continue to feature prominently in on-pack positionings. Clariant recently introduced an encapsulated retinol VitiSpheres R8 protects the anti-aging potency of retinol, a vitamin A derivative, deemed a key nutrient in boosting cell turnover.
Last October, Biosyntia closed a Series B funding round at €17.5 million (US$ 17.3 million) to scale the production of the “world’s first natural and sustainably produced biotin, vitamin B7, an essential B-vitamin used in a range of applications.”
In other industry developments, PerformanceLabs is promoting the synergies between vitamin C and retinol – which it suggests can help mitigate the risk of skin barrier damage when used together at once.
Edited by Benjamin Ferrer
