Beyond petrochemicals: Beauty industry nears tipping point amid push for sustainable alternatives

Petrochemicals are instrumental in delivering desirable sensory and application qualities in beauty products. However, they pose negative environmental and health effects, which is driving the industry to find more eco-friendly alternatives.

Personal Care Insights speaks to industry experts from Cargill Beauty, BASF, and Cellugy about how consumers and regulation are fueling the shift away from petrochemicals. Still, the companies flag that there are many hurdles to overcome before a full transition is possible. 

“We’re approaching a tipping point. Consumers are increasingly informed and vocal — especially through social media — and are placing growing pressure on brands to eliminate petrochemical ingredients,” Frederic Niola, global innovation director at Cargill Beauty, tells us.

“As awareness and regulatory scrutiny increase, we expect more bans and restrictions on certain petro-based substances. The future of cosmetics is undoubtedly more natural, transparent, and sustainable.”

Petrochemical ingredients in cosmetics are derived from fossil fuels and can contribute to climate change and plastic pollution. Microplastics pose a threat to aquatic life and, ultimately, to the human food chain. These substances persist in the environment and can bind harmful chemicals like phthalates and BPA, amplifying their negative impact.

“The beauty industry faces a formidable challenge in transitioning away from petrochemicals. Finding sustainable alternatives that match the performance of synthetic ingredients is complex and costly,” says Dr. Isabel Alvarez-Martos, CEO and co-founder of Cellugy.

“Additionally, reformulating beloved products without compromising consumer satisfaction requires substantial investment in R&D. Nevertheless, the growing consumer demand for clean and ethical beauty products is driving innovation and creating opportunities for brands to lead the industry in sustainable practices.”

What causes the shift

Petrochemicals are petroleum derivatives associated with environmentally damaging extraction and refining processes. The demand for more sustainable products is driven by increasingly environmentally conscious consumers and the broader push toward renewable resources.

Consumers and regulations are pushing for petrochemical alternatives in the personal care industry.“Today’s consumers are increasingly skeptical of petro-based chemicals and are demanding cleaner formulations. This shift mirrors the industry’s transition in the late 1990s away from animal-derived ingredients — it’s a natural evolution toward more planet-friendly solutions,” says Niola.

This demand encourages companies to innovate and develop alternatives to petrochemicals. These alternatives help reduce CO2 emissions, offer improved biodegradability, and enable the valorization of by-products.

Johannes Crotogino, market development for Skin Care at BASF, is “convinced that the sustainable transformation of the industry will continue to gather pace.”

Company, consumer, and global demand

BASF’s Crotogino says alternatives to petrochemicals are becoming increasingly important due to the growing demand for biobased and biodegradable solutions. 

“People today have a growing awareness of their environmental footprint. To make informed choices, consumers desire detailed knowledge about the origins and sourcing of raw materials,” he continues.

However, the demand extends beyond consumers, with many manufacturers increasingly setting sustainability goals.

“Consequently, there is a growing demand for alternatives to petrochemicals from brands and companies across all cosmetic segments and geographies. This demand is most established with European and American brands, but other regions are also catching up.”

Niola adds that the demand for petrochemical alternatives is not only concentrated in Western Europe or North America but is much broader.

“Consumers around the globe — regardless of geography — are seeking safe, effective, and sustainable personal care products for themselves, their families, and the planet. This is a truly global movement, driven by a universal desire for transparency, safety, and environmental responsibility.”

Testing gaps

Developing and formulating new, sustainable ingredients requires education and adaptation. Suppliers are responsible for providing the necessary technical support and guidance.

“Personal care brands and companies are very serious about cosmetic products’ performance and sensory properties. Maintaining these attributes is among the main challenges when developing alternatives for petrochemical ingredients,” says Crotogino

“Often, these alternatives cannot simply replace conventional ingredients one-to-one in a formulation, which makes it challenging for cosmetic manufacturers to develop high-performing and appealing products.”

Niola adds that bands must take a holistic view when developing petrochemical alternatives.BASF showcased its Verdessence range at In-cosmetics Global 2025.

“While some alternatives may initially appear more costly, they often bring added value through enhanced performance, multifunctionality, and alignment with sustainability goals,” he says.

Regulatory hurdles can also pose challenges. New ingredients often require registration and testing. Niola says these tests may still involve animal testing due to the lack of validated alternative methods.

“Despite significant progress in non-animal testing methods, some gaps remain, and this can slow the adoption of innovative ingredients.”

Company solutions

Cargill Beauty offers three main petrochemical alternative solutions, two launched last year.

The company’s BotaniButter is a naturally derived wax emollient that delivers a sensory experience similar to silicone wax, leaving a silky touch on the skin.

The BotaniDesign, launched in 2024, is a 100% naturally derived, readily biodegradable emollient designed as a drop-in alternative to petrolatum. It has been recognized with industry awards, including the SCI Sustainable Award and the Bronze Edison Award in 2024.

Lastly, Cargill Beauty’s Actigum Care also launched in 2024, is an AI-designed rheology modifier that delivers a sensory-rich alternative to petro-based, especially acrylic-based, thickeners.

Meanwhile, Cellugy offers EcoFlexy Rheo, a cellulose-based ingredient. It uses biotechnology to create more natural, bio-based, and biodegradable ingredients.

“This benefits our planet and allows for greater customization and personalization of products, tailoring formulations to individual skin types and needs. It truly represents the future of green innovation in personal care,” says Alvarez-Martos. 

“EcoFlexy Rheo is an incredibly versatile and powerful rheology modifier with broad applications across the entire personal care spectrum. Its thickening and stabilizing properties make it ideal for a wide range of product categories, including skin care, hair care, sun care, and vibrant color cosmetics. This bop-based and biodegradable solution excels at creating stable, high-quality products, even under challenging conditions.”

Formulators are challenged with how to create alternatives for petrochemicals in cosmetics. EcoFlexy’s crystalline structure and 3D network allows it to stabilize various components, including waxes, clays, pigments, and active ingredients. It also features shear-thinning properties that makes it easy to apply.

BASF has continuously launched biobased and biodegradable emollients for many years. It recently expanded its Verdessence range. These ingredients offer an alternative to petrochemical-made ingredients and maintain performance and sensorial properties.

Future of innovation

The convergence of technological advancements, evolving consumer demands, and increasing regulatory pressures will drive the future of petrochemical alternatives in cosmetics.

Alvarez-Martos says that biotechnology and fermentation are where the most exciting breakthroughs in the industry are occurring.

“The ability to harness microorganisms and biological systems to produce highly functional and sustainable ingredients will continue to grow exponentially. Biotechnology allows for the creation of ingredients with precise molecular structures and enhanced efficacy. This means we can develop ingredients tailored to specific skin and hair needs, offering levels of customization and performance previously impossible with traditional petrochemicals,” she says.

“Fermentation platforms offer a more controlled and consistent production environment compared to traditional agriculture, which can be subject to seasonal variations and climate challenges. This ensures a reliable supply of high-quality ingredients.”

Cellugy’s Alvarez-Martos also believes that the industry will increasingly embrace circularity and make advancements in green chemistry. 

Despite the growing momentum away from petrochemicals, suitable alternatives to petrochemical ingredients are not yet available in all areas of the personal care industry.

“Consequently, some sectors will continue to depend on petrochemical ingredients for a longer period. It is important to note that brands will only transition to alternatives if these alternatives can meet consumers’ high expectations regarding efficiency, performance, and sensory experience,” concludes Crotogino.