CTPA dismisses University of Birmingham study on PFAS skin absorption

11 Jul 2024 --- The Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) pushes back against a study by the University of Birmingham that warns the skin is a “significant source of exposure” to PFAS from clothes and personal care products. 

Caroline Rainsford, director of Science at the CTPA, tells Personal Care Insights, “The chemicals assessed in the study do not have official cosmetic ingredient names and are therefore very unlikely to be used as cosmetic ingredients.”

She adds, “The authors state that the chosen solvent for the dermal penetration studies is a limitation to this research due to the fact that methanol increases the skin penetration potential of substances. Methanol is banned as a solvent in cosmetic products. Therefore, due to the fact that these PFAS chemicals are not used in cosmetics and the solvent used in the study is not used in cosmetic products, the study results are not representative of cosmetic products and their ingredients.”

University study findings
The university’s researchers said it was the “first time” the dermal absorption of 17 PFAS was evaluated using in vitro 3D-human human equivalent skin models exposed to 500 ng/cm2 of PFAS dissolved in methanol throughout 24 to 36 hours. 

“Dermal route should not be dismissed as a possible route of human exposure to PFAS,” say paper authors.The “forever chemicals” are known to persist in the environment and accumulate in the body as they do not break down naturally.

According to the study, a total of 15 PFAS, including 13.5% of PFOA, one of the most common and toxic types of the chemical, were absorbed through the skin in “substantial” amounts. The research also found that shorter-chain PFAS, like PFPeA and PFBS, had the highest absorption rates, with 58.9% and 48.7%, respectively, while longer-chain PFAS tended to remain within the skin tissue rather than be absorbed.

“This is important because we see a shift in the industry toward chemicals with shorter chain lengths because these are believed to be less toxic — however, the trade-off might be that we absorb more of them, so we need to know more about the risks involved,” says study co-author Stuart Harrad.

The authors say that previous research has shown that PFAS in personal care products is ionized on the skin surface alongside anionic surfactants, which can permeate the skin.

“Based on the data presented in this study, dermal exposure could be a significant source of exposure for some PFAS, especially the shorter-chain PFAS. Thus, the dermal route should not be dismissed as a possible route of human exposure to PFAS,” they underscore.

“Dermal route should not be dismissed as a possible route of human exposure to PFAS,” say paper authors.Governmental and industry action
Rainsford underscores that laws strictly regulate cosmetics and personal care products on markets. “A survey by CTPA, conducted in 2020, found that PFAS ingredients have a very limited use in cosmetics and personal care products because, in the vast majority of cases, cosmetic scientists have developed non-PFAS alternatives to PFAS ingredients to provide the same product benefits.”

“All cosmetic products and their ingredients must be safe for use. If any remaining PFAS ingredients are soon to be replaced as part of the voluntary action, we can be confident that these are subject to the same extremely strict UK and EU safety laws as is the case with all cosmetic ingredients.”

“The UK and EU cosmetics industry are working toward a voluntary recommendation to proactively phase out all intentionally added PFAS ingredients by December 2025,” she adds.

“In October 2023, Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care association, issued a Recommendation that any European (including UK) cosmetics companies still using PFAS ingredients should phase these out by December 2025. The CTPA and its membership helped develop, therefore fully supporting this recommendation.”

Rainsford stresses that several individual PFAS substances are banned from cosmetics through Annex II of the EU and UK Cosmetics Regulations. “PFAS ingredients have a very limited use in cosmetic products and companies have been proactively phasing out PFAS cosmetic ingredients for many years.”

She shares that the UK Government is investigating how best to regulate PFAS chemicals under its chemicals law, UK REACH. “The Health and Safety Executive, the Government agency responsible for much of the technical work under this chemicals law, published a report in 2023 outlining its proposal on the best way to manage risks from PFAS in the UK.”

“CTPA is working with the UK Government in its Working Groups to help shape appropriate, proportionate and cost-effective regulatory action on PFAS.”

UK and European cosmetics undergo a rigorous safety evaluation conducted by a certified safety assessor.Safety testing process
According to Rainsford, it is legally mandated that all cosmetics in the UK and Europe undergo a rigorous safety evaluation conducted by a certified safety assessor. The assessment considers the safety of each component, regardless of size or source, as well as the product’s intended use, completion date, user and location.

She notes three layers to the safety assurance process for cosmetics. “First, there is UK legislation that requires cosmetics to be safe. This includes lists of substances that must not be present and lists of substances that may be used as ingredients subject to particular restrictions.”

“Second, there is the professional safety assessor who personally signs to say the cosmetic product is safe. Third, there is the control by authorities checking on products placed on the market.” 

Action on PFAS
Last month, the French Senate approved a PFAS ban proposal in cosmetics, coinciding with the Danish Parliament’s allocation of DKK404 million (US$59 million) for a national action plan to prevent, contain and clean up its PFAS contamination.

In the US, consumers are becoming more wary of product safety. The Environmental Protection Agency poll showed strong support for adding personal care products to the Safer Choice program, which certifies products as free of some of the most toxic chemicals.

Colorado began its PFAS phaseout by banning forever chemicals-based cleaning, floss and menstrual products by 2026.

By Venya Patel