Givaudan Active Beauty pushes biotechnology boundaries by boosting BisaboLife

09 Nov 2021 --- Givaudan Active Beauty has improved the purity and environmental sustainability of its (-)-α-bisabolol ingredient BisaboLife by using biotechnology. The ingredient is suitable for sensitive skin and scalp product applications.

Thanks to an optimized process, the company can now “guarantee” an ingredient with a level of purity at a minimum of 99%. This is the highest rate available in the industry today, claims the company, It outperforms both synthetic and natural products.

“While natural sourcing has the advantage of not containing farnesol at all, we all know its limitations: less sustainable, less reliable supply depending on seasonality, deforestation risk, and in general more expensive,” says Mathias Fleury, global category manager, active beauty, biotech actives and HA.

Givaudan research has also demonstrated that the active ingredient possesses the lowest farnesol content on the market (<0.05%) versus synthetic alternatives.

Givaudan research found that the active ingredient possesses the lowest farnesol content on the market versus synthetic alternatives.“Givaudan now offers the best level of purity on the market, compared to the usual 95% for the natural sourcing and 95 to 97% for the synthetic alternative, while limiting the farnesol content significantly and outperforming petro-chemical offers,” Fleury details.

Bio-sourcing saves the day
Launched in 2017, BisaboLife is a fully bio-sourced bisabolol crafted by white biotechnology through the fermentation of plant sugars. It offers the possibility of fortifying and soothing sensitive skin and scalp while restoring comfort.

Clinical tests demonstrate that the active ingredient reduces skin redness by 81% after shaving and soothes scalp irritation by 25%.

“Our objective is to innovate by creating natural alternatives to synthetics, building on Givaudan Active Beauty’s position in actives from biotechnology,” Fleury notes.

Bioengineered ingredients are becoming mainstream as a means of satisfying consumer safety concerns, according to the company.

“There will also be a rise in non-irritating, non-alienating and allergen-free claims. Our commitment to satisfy customers and their consumers is leading us to outperform the competition in both purity and allergen rates.”

With this in mind, Givaudan Active Beauty recently launched [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01, a functional cosmetic ingredient crafted by green fractionation, that challenges butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) by outperforming its efficacy in a natural and organic way.

Meanwhile, the prolific personal care arm of Givaudan unveiled a range of new ingredients this year, created by green fractionation.

The company launched Mangixyl, a microbiome-friendly ingredient that targets oily skin through sebum regulation and the botanical active ingredient Sericoside, which restores skin to its best version and promotes healthy aging through cellular reprogramming.

Moreover, it recently launched a cosmetic ingredient created from wild bilberries, called Omegablue, which boasts “advanced skin repair” properties.

The company is also using biocatalysis and microbiomics to tackle skin issues related to wearing face masks. It launched Masknyl, an active ingredient able to counteract redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation due to mask-wearing.

Edited by Kristiana Lalou

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