Givaudan Active Beauty challenges organic BHT with launch of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01
03 Nov 2021 --- Givaudan Active Beauty is launching [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01, a functional cosmetic ingredient that challenges butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) by outperforming its efficacy in a natural and organic way.
Crafted by green fractionation from rosemary sustainably sourced mainly in Morocco, the company’s new ingredient offers antioxidant benefits superior to BHT and BHA and some natural solutions while protecting botanical oils and stabilizing colors.
“The current set of synthetic antioxidants used in cosmetic products, such as BHA, BHT and synthetic tocopherols, are effective but contested by an increasing number of consumers,” says Yohan Rolland, global category manager.
“Our scientists rose to the challenge of finding organic and even more efficient alternatives to offer formulators a sustainable way to create finished cosmetic products with 100% natural origin ingredients.”
Moroccan rosemary
The ability to offer beauty products that retain the perfect aspect, odor and color is essential in the cosmetics industry, the company says.
The ingredient offers antioxidant benefits superior to BHT and BHA and some natural solutions while protecting botanical oils and stabilizing colors.This first proof of product quality visible to the consumer ensures a positive perception and helps secure consumer loyalty.
However, it is still challenging for formulators today to create a 100% natural origin formulation due to the use of synthetic preservatives.
[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is an organic certified ingredient crafted by green fractionation from handpicked rosemary leaves, sustainably sourced mainly in the Atlas mountains of Morocco.
Controlled through IDPack, an exhaustive set of analyses including botanical observation, DNA analysis, HPTLC and HPLC measurement, this antioxidant solution is able to offer pure and natural claims to the cosmetics market.
Rigorous testing
Several tests were performed to demonstrate the efficacy of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 compared with synthetic antioxidants.
All demonstrate higher efficacy on aggressive temperature and light exposure conditions, showing that the ingredient is a better antioxidant, 2.3 times more efficient than BHT, and 3.3 times more efficient than BHA.
It is also able to protect an oil-soluble coloring agent in MCT more than 2 times better than BHT and synthetic competitor.
In addition it is able to protect water-soluble coloring agents in emulsion more than 2 times better than BHT and synthetic tocopherols.
“[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 outperforms synthetic antioxidants in all categories, making it one of the best natural alternatives in the cosmetics market,” Givaudan Active Beauty says.
Notable moves in cosmetics
Within the past year, Givaudan Active Beauty unveiled Zanthalene, a scalable natural active ingredient, made by green fractionation. The company says it can provide well-aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas.
It also launched a botanical active ingredient, coined Sericoside, that restores skin to its best version and promotes healthy aging through cellular reprogramming.
Givaudan Active Beauty used biocatalysis and microbiomics to tackle skin issues related to wearing face masks. The company launched Masknyl, an active ingredient able to counteract redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation due to mask-wearing.
Givaudan also launched DigiPulse to decode consumers’ online spontaneous comments about fine fragrances. The artificial intelligence (AI)-powered technology is marketed as the first olfactive social listening tool.
Edited by Kristiana Lalou
