Petrochemical alternatives abound amid heightened scrutiny from consumers and regulators

09 Apr 2024 --- Petrochemicals have long been used in cosmetic products but these ingredients are increasingly called into question by consumers and government regulators who are concerned about their potentially harmful effects on skin and the environment. This has driven legislation and the personal care industry to search for alternatives with the same cost and efficacy as the original chemicals.

Personal Care Insights connects with Amit Kumar Khan, co-founder and CEO of Greenitio, to learn more about this trend and how his company is adapting to this shift. 

“There is a noticeable trend among personal care companies toward incorporating petrochemical alternatives into their formulations. This shift is primarily driven by growing consumer awareness and demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products.” Amit Kumar Khan, co-founder and CEO at Greenitio, tells us.

Innova Market Insights data suggests that consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability and seek products aligned with their values, leading to the quest for petrochemical alternatives in personal care. From plant-based and botanical extracts to bio-based surfactants, the industry is shifting toward a green chemistry approach with renewable, biodegradable and environmentally responsible ingredients.

Alternative ingredients
Last month, Singapore-based Greenitio launched two cosmetic ingredients, Chitobe and Chitobela, to replace petrochemical-based cosmetics materials for skin and hair care. The ingredients are touted as high-performing and cost-effective alternatives to cosmetics containing petrochemicals.

“We have been at the forefront of developing innovative petrochemical alternatives, with products like Chitobela and Chitobe pioneering the space in the cosmetics and personal care industry,” says Khan. 

“Our focus has been on leveraging natural biopolymers and plant-based ingredients to create high-performance, sustainable alternatives to traditional petrochemicals.”

Consumers are demanding more natural cosmetics.Consumers driving change
The CEO of Greenitio explains that consumers are becoming increasingly informed about petrochemicals’ environmental and health impacts. He continues that this is propelling the industry toward renewable, biodegradable alternatives and less harmful to the ecosystem.

Khan expects the transition toward petrochemical alternatives to accelerate in the coming years.

“This momentum is likely to be sustained and propelled by evolving consumer preferences toward clean beauty, clinical beauty, signification, sustainability, nature-inspired solutions, advancements in green science and increasing regulatory mandates to reduce environmental impact. As the technology behind bio-based alternatives advances, making them more cost-effective and efficient, their adoption across personal care formulations is anticipated to grow.”

Regulation push
Khan says petrochemicals continue dominating the market, but many innovators are searching for viable bio-based alternatives. “Regulatory pressures and the global push for sustainability are significant motivators for this transition.”

Various reports suggest the beauty industry could face revenue losses of about €12 billion (US$13 billion) due to the EU microplastics ban and US restrictions on PFAS, also known as “forever chemicals.” That has the beauty and chemicals industries searching for alternatives that do not include any plastics.

“Overcoming the decades-long head start of the petrochemical industry, with its virtually unlimited R&D resources, poses a significant challenge in developing viable alternatives. This includes meeting the stringent demands for product performance, regulatory compliance and cost-effectiveness,” asserts Khan. 

“Looking ahead, we expect to see innovations that further enhance the functionality and environmental benefits of these alternatives. This includes developing new bio-based polymers with unique properties, improving product stability, compatibility, appearance and efficacy and scaling production methods to meet industry demands.”Restrictions being placed on microplastics in cosmetics often contain petrochemicals. 

Comparing to competitors
Research from the University of Southern Santa Catarina (Unisul), Brazil, investigated using essential oils (EO) as a petrochemical alternative in cosmetics. The study explains that although EOs have “excellent” antifungal and antibacterial action, completely removing petrochemical preservatives from cosmetics and replacing them with substances of natural origin is “not easy to achieve.”

“The durability of the antimicrobial action of EO is relatively low (two to three months) compared to petrochemical preservatives, such as parabens. Extending the durability of EO action presents a significant challenge in the cosmetic industry… For application on a large scale, the global costs of materials and manufacturing exceed those associated with traditional and well-known methods of preservation,” write the authors.

Meanwhile, Greenitio’s strategy centers on identifying alternatives and “fundamentally enhancing the performance of biopolymers to make them true competitors — both in terms of cost and effectiveness.”

Khan explains that the company uses a biogenic green process that functionalizes biopolymers, amplifying ingredients’ innate properties.

“For example, our products exhibit enhanced antimicrobial or anti-aging properties, alongside improved stability, better compatibility with other ingredients and efficacy in skin care applications.”

Process of alternatives
Greenitio’s process technology deviates from synbio production processes that often rely on complex fermentation processes. It also diverges from traditional petrochemical processes by avoiding harsh chemicals, minimizing waste and circumventing the need for complex purification. 

Unlike fermentation, which can be resource-intensive and produce by-products requiring further treatment, Greenitio’s biogenic process is water-based, designed for minimal waste and lower energy consumption. According to the company, this strategy reduces the carbon footprint and bolsters the production cycle’s sustainability, “rendering it more efficient and environmentally friendly.”

After six hours of wear, BotaniDesign and white petrolatum produced similar smoothing effects.“Utilizing solely bio-based raw materials, our process significantly cuts down on non-renewable resource dependency and prevents toxic emissions. The green process doesn’t hinge on complex or challenging-to-scale infrastructure. Instead, it allows Greenitio to scale production cost-effectively using readily available off-the-shelf infrastructure, facilitating easy market expansion,” explains Khan.

“Energy-efficient operations, reduced waste, and fully biodegradable product production contribute to a near 90% reduction in CO2 emissions, aligning with global sustainability goals.”

Showcasing solutions
In other petrochemical alternative solutions, Cargill Beauty will demonstrate its BotaniDesign and Actigum Care, petrochemical alternatives for emollients and rheology modifiers. 

According to the personal care product supplier, studies show that after six hours of wear, white petrolatum (84%) and BotaniDesign (82%) had comparable “smoothness effects.”

Cargill Beauty believes BotaniDesign is superior to other emollients since it is a “100% derived natural and readily biodegradable” alternative to conventional petroleum jelly.

By Sabine Waldeck