Vitafoods Europe 2026: Pharmactive enters beauty-from-within market with hair-growth nutricosmetic

Pharmactive Biotech Products has entered the beauty-from-within space with the launch of Kyoh, its first nutricosmetic. Kyoh is a single ingredient, pure extract formulated to help support hair follicle function in a range of different product concepts. 

The solution is a proprietary extraction of arugula leaves from the Brassicaceae family of cruciferous vegetables and is currently “the only” such extract backed by scientific research for hair growth. 

Pharmactive says it sources its raw material from European farmers, allowing the company tighter control over the quality and consistency of its supply chain. Kyoh is also non-GMO and non-irradiated, further aligning with current expectations for naturally derived ingredients. 

Nutrient-dense powerhouse 

Characterized by their dark green color, arugula leaves are hailed as nutrient-dense powerhouses, packed with vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, and antioxidants. Research has previously associated the botanical with supporting hair thickness and growth, with a traditional use in South Asia of arugula seed oil as a hair tonic. 

Now, Pharmactive is pioneering scientific research into the link between this natural botanical and follicular health. Preliminary studies of Kyoh’s potential as an oral hair-support agent have already produced positive results. 

For example, one recent lab trial demonstrated the extract’s ability to stimulate dermal papilla cell activity and modulate the activity of genes involved in hair follicle function.

Speaking to Personal Care Insights, Adal Mena, R&D scientist and product manager of Kyoh, tells us: “Preclinical studies have demonstrated [Kyoh] significantly enhances the biological activity of hair follicles. It promotes the proliferation of dermal follicle cells, upregulates growth factors such as vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and growth factor FGF-7, and activates antioxidant pathways linked to cellular protection.”

According to Mena, these results highlight a dual mechanism combining follicular stimulation with environmental protection.

To translate these findings into real-world efficacy, a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted evaluating two different dosages. Although full results are pending publication for later this year, Mena says the outcomes are “very positive.”

“Kyoh stands out through a highly complementary biological mechanism that acts directly at the follicular level,” explains Mena. “It has shown a remarkable capacity to stimulate the expression of key growth factors, reaching levels that are not commonly observed in botanical ingredients. This translates into enhanced follicular activity, improved nutrient supply, and support of the anagen phase.”

“Kyoh also activates antioxidant defense pathways, particularly through antioxidant regulator NRF2, helping to protect the follicle from oxidative stress and maintain a healthy microenvironment.” 

Mena says the combination of these two mechanisms — stimulation and protection — provides “a more complete and balanced approach to hair performance, supporting both density and overall hair quality.”

Arugula fuel for hair follicles

Kyoh is a pure extract of the Eruca sativa leaf, formulated to support hair growth. Kyoh is standardized to over 1.5% Erucosides, a defined group of active compounds naturally present in arugula species. 

These compounds were quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis to ensure a total content of 1.5%–3.% flavonol glycosides, mainly from quercetin, kaempferol, and isorhamnetin, guaranteeing batch-to-batch consistency and reproducibility. These actives are believed to lie behind the plant’s stimulating effect on the growth of hair follicle cells.

Mena sees Kyoh’s positioning as a single-ingredient extract as “a strong advantage in today’s market.” She says it offers a defined and standardized active profile, which ensures consistency and allows its mechanism of action to be directly linked to the ingredient itself. “This clarity enhances scientific credibility while also providing formulation flexibility.”

“Brands can easily integrate Kyoh into different concepts, combine it with other actives, and build clear, transparent claims. In a context where consumers increasingly value simplicity and traceability, this approach aligns perfectly with clean and effective product development.”

According to Pharmactive, Kyoh represents a “new generation of hair health ingredients with a more targeted and mechanistic approach, acting directly on the biology of the hair follicle.”

Mena adds: “This positions it as a complementary and more advanced solution within modern nutricosmetic formulations.”

Addressing hair thinning concerns

Approximately 50% of women and 70% of men experience thinning hair in midlife, often manifesting at the crown. Younger people are also actively seeking natural solutions that can help prevent hair loss or boost hair thickness and appearance.

“The results [from the clinical trial] suggest that Kyoh may support hair growth through multiple complementary mechanisms, including protection against oxidative stress, which negatively impacts hair growth by damaging hair follicle cells,” says Marina Diez-Municio, head of R&D and quality control at Pharmactive.

The company recommends a 300 mg daily intake at the beginning, followed by 100 mg for maintenance.

Potential beyond hair growth

According to Mena, the mechanisms observed for Kyoh suggest promising potential beyond hair applications. 

“Its ability to activate antioxidant pathways through NRF2 and protect cells from oxidative stress is highly relevant for skin health, particularly in the context of aging and environmental damage,” she says. 

The stimulation of growth factors and cellular activity could support regeneration processes in both scalp and skin. Mena believes this combination of protection and stimulation opens the door to broader applications in beauty-from-within, including scalp care, skin vitality, and overall tissue health, particularly in areas where oxidative stress and cellular turnover play a key role.

“However, our current focus is on hair health, where we are building the strongest scientific foundation. As research progresses, we will continue to explore additional applications, but always with the same commitment to evidence and precision,” Mena concludes.