Seppic study sees “immediate” skin benefits with water-soluble polymer Solagum AX

04 Sep 2024 --- Seppic reveals new findings on Solagum AX, its natural-origin polymer, for delivering “immediate” skin benefits. It is a water-soluble polymer that dissolves fast and boasts a clean, fresh and non-sticky aqueous sensory experience. 

Andréa Nigon, Beauty Care Markets & Digital manager, tells Personal Care Insights, “Formulators are looking for natural ingredients that are multifunctional and present immediate effects to claim immediate benefits for the whole formula.”

Seppic says Solagum AX thickens and stabilizes formulations, bringing film-forming, soothing and moisturizing properties. In dermocosmetics, the viscosity stays stable even with active ingredients (like urea, glycolic acid, allantoin and aloe vera gel) or thermal waters because of its higher pH and resistance to electrolytes.

The company’s clinical evaluations have shown that Solagum AX, at 1% in water, provides softer skin and minimizes red spots and crow’s feet wrinkles. It also says the ingredient brings a “sensation of freshness” when applied, leaving the skin brighter and more radiant after 30 minutes.

How does Solagum AX compare to other natural polymers in skin care formulations?
Nigon: Solagum AX is obtained from a unique and innovative manufacturing process in which the Acacia gum coats the Xanthan gum. While Xanthan gum is a commonly used gum but also well-known for its unpleasant stringy and sticky effect, Solagum AX is a non-ionic water-soluble polymer that dissolves quickly and delivers outstanding sensoriality with a non-stringy, non-sticky and fresh aqueous sensation. 

Clinical measurements with image analysis (Colorface), clinical scoring and perceptible evaluation.At 1%, it stabilizes up to 15% of oils, in comparison to Xanthan gum, which stabilizes less than 5% of oil at 1%. Solagum AX also ensures a significant moisturizing effect for up to eight hours and excellent compatibility with hydrophilic pigment dispersions better than Xanthan gum, which is ideal for performant skin care blurring the limit with makeup. Moreover, as part of Seppic’s environmental commitment, Acacia sourcing is part of a sustainable program.

What challenges did Seppic overcome in developing Solagum AX to achieve high performance and natural origin?
Nigon: To achieve Solagum AX, a 100% natural origin (according to ISO 16128) thickening and stabilizing gum, Seppic developed a smart association of a well-known gum, Xanthan gum, and Acacia gum. By coating the Xanthan gum with Acacia gum with a spray-drying process, it enables to boost the performance of each natural gum and goes beyond the properties of Xanthan gum alone. Moreover, it fulfills the parameters of Seppic’s eco-design approach that considers, among other things, the sourcing and the process of the ingredients. This eco-design approach aims at reducing negative environmental impacts associated with the sourcing of natural raw materials. 

What role does Solagum AX play in addressing the growing trend toward minimalist, multifunctional skin care, next to biodegradable and eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients?
Nigon: Solagum AX is a readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301), 100% natural origin thickener ideal for many textures that also present active benefits such as moisturization or reduction of polluting particle absorption in combination with other ingredients. Thus, Solagum AX plays the role of a natural excipient, presenting active benefits that perfectly answer sustainable, multi-functional and minimalist skin care products.

Seppic revisits ingredients 

The chemicals company has been revisiting its ingredients to find additional benefits aligning with the multifunctional trend.

Seppic recently released a clinical study highlighting the anti-aging benefits of its nutricosmetic active, Sepitone, a fermented wild bilberry extract. The study added new information about Sepitone’s anti-aging advantages to earlier research proving its effects on complexion evenness.

It also re-explored the potential of its Aquaxyl to cater to inclusive solutions for skin hydration. It is a preservative-free, natural sugar-based active ingredient and has been found to impact the skin from phototypes one to six.

Seppic tapped into the “skinification” trend of hair products with the test results of Emogreen HP 40, which supported the bio-sourced emollient’s properties for skin and hair care. Launched in 2022, this plant-based and “inherently biodegradable” emollient has C15-19 alkane and hydrogenated polyfarnesene.

The company’s Alariane CV hair care ingredient was found to have an impact on scalp health. Comprised of water, butylene glycol and Alaria esculenta extract, Alariane CV is touted as a superfood inspiration to protect the scalp.

By Venya Patel