September in review: Evonik expands emollient production, China escalates trade tensions and New York pioneers 1,4-dioxane ban

In September, key companies expanded operations to meet sustainability objectives and heightened ingredient demand. Evonik opened a multi-million dollar plant in Steinau, Germany, and told Personal Care Insights it would hike the capacity to manufacture esters by approximately 300%. Symrise also opened its first cosmetic ingredient manufacturing facility in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India, to serve the growing Asia-Pacific market and Jungbunzlauer invested CA$200 (US$148) million to build Canada’s first xanthan gum facility as part of its North American expansion plans.

In regulatory news, the US state of Illinois said it would ban hotels from using small, single-use plastic bottles for personal care products and New York became the first US state to adopt new regulations curbing 1,4-dioxane use in household cleansing, personal care and cosmetic products. At the same time, the European Union (EU) limited undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA) forever chemical use in cosmetics to reduce what it called “unacceptable risks” to the environment and public health.

Trade tensions also escalated with China starting an anti-dumping probe into Canadian canola imports after Canada followed the US and the EU in imposing a 100% tariff on Chinese electric vehicle imports.

Learn more about the significant stories last month that made headlines in the personal care and beauty sector.

September

Illinois to ban single-use cosmetic and toiletry plastic bottles in hotels to curb microplastic pollution
The US state of Illinois said it would ban hotels from using small, single-use plastic bottles containing personal care products starting next summer. The restriction first applies to hotels with 50 or more rooms and by January 2026, all hotels are expected to abide by the law. The Illinois Environmental Council welcomed the new law and the “ripple effects” expected across sectors, including a reduction in the amount of single-use goods purchased, more reusable solutions and commercial innovation.

Evonik opened a multi-million dollar plant in Steinau, Germany (Image credit: Evonik).Evonik: New German plant will significantly boost production of sustainable cosmetic emollients
Evonik opened a multi-million dollar plant in Steinau, Germany, to meet high market demand for cosmetic emollients with a portfolio of more than 200 products. The company told Personal Care Insights the new facility would complement existing capacity from facilities in Duisburg, Germany and Shanghai, China, making it a “stronghold for innovation for the cosmetics industry as well as biodegradable specialty surfactants and active substances.” Evonik also expanded its botanical and natural actives portfolio with hair and skin care ingredient launches.

Consortium led by cosmetics tycoon seals The Body Shop deal and bets on innovation
Cosmetics tycoon Mike Jatania officially rescued The Body Shop from administration, while his investment firm Auréa Group also gained control of the Body Shop’s assets in Australia and North America. Jatania said he planned to invest in “product innovation and seamless experiences across all of the channels where customers shop while paying homage to the brand’s ethical and activist positioning.” The investment group said it had no immediate plans to shut any of the remaining UK stores.

Personal Care Trends 2024: Trend #1 – Precision in Performance
Innova Market Insights released its Personal Care Trends 2024 report, analyzing the global market and searching for the most prominent industry trends. Highlighting “Precision in Performance” as the top personal care trend, the research firm noted how product performance is critical for the modern consumer, whether it be precise formulation of key actives or convenience in packaging without extra hassle.

Trade tensions with West escalate as China launches anti-dumping probe into Canadian canola imports
Canadian canola (or rapeseed) imports were China’s latest target. The country started a one-year anti-dumping probe as Canada followed the US and the European Union in imposing a 100% tariff on imports of Chinese electric vehicles starting this month. Steel and aluminum imported from China also face a 25% tariff. Canola is widely used in the food industry and in the cosmetics sector as a humectant for skin care products, a conditioning agent in hair care and in compostable personal care packaging.

Symrise says new Chennai plant will serve growing Indian and Asia-Pacific cosmetic markets
Symrise opened its first cosmetic ingredient manufacturing facility in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India, to produce ingredients for its Micro Protection, Actives and Botanicals business units. The chemicals company said the facility would enhance its supply chain competencies for the Indian market and also accelerate the company’s growth in the Asia-Pacific area with the 1,788-square-meter building, which is “more than a factory.” 

Johnson & Johnson tried for a third time to settle about 61,000 thousand lawsuits related to its talc products and end claims related to ovarian cancer.J&J files for bankruptcy in third attempt to settle scores of ovarian cancer claims
Johnson & Johnson (J&J) tried for a third time through its subsidiary Red River Talc to settle about 61,000 thousand lawsuits related to its talc products and end current and future claims specifically related to ovarian cancer. J&J used the so-called “Texas two-step” strategy in an attempt to shield the parent company from bankruptcy. J&J maintains its products do not cause cancer or contain asbestos. 

EU limits PFHxA forever chemical use in cosmetics under REACH
The EU introduced Regulation 2024/2462, firming restrictions on certain PFAS in consumer products, including cosmetics. The regulation targets PFHxA, its salts and related substances and amends Annex XVII of the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Regulation. The European Commission said the new regulation would reduce unacceptable risks to the environment and public health.

Toxin takedown: New York pioneers 1,4-dioxane ban in household and personal care products
New York adopted new regulations to curb 1,4-dioxane in household cleansing, personal care and cosmetic products. The Department of Environmental Conservation said the state was the first in the US to take on the regulation for these product categories to protect consumers, natural resources and create healthier communities. Synthetic industrial chemical 1,4-dioxane is widely used as a chemical stabilizer in various formulations and is frequently linked to chlorinated solvents. It exists as a byproduct or contaminant in consumer goods like shampoo.

Jungbunzlauer CA$200M investment in Canadian biogum facility to produce xanthan gum
Jungbunzlauer invested CA$200 (US$148) million to build Canada’s first xanthan gum facility in Port Colborne, Ontario, with the first phase of the multi-year project expected to be operational by spring 2026. The global producer of sustainable ingredients said the new plant would help it meet sustainability objectives and growing demand in North America. Xanthan gum is a flexible thickening agent used in personal care formulations as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, skin-conditioning agent, surfactant and viscosity-increasing agent.