Mental health and personal care: Examining neurocosmetics, skin-brain axis and functional fragrances

14 Jun 2023 --- As the EU confronts an “unprecedented crisis” of people’s ability to cope with growing challenges, Personal Care Insights looks at the role of personal care products in improving mental health. We speak to Mibelle Biochemistry, and examine mood-enhancing developments with Clariant and across the industry, showcasing that players have a level of responsibility in this space.

“A big factor in improving mental health for personal care products has always been the ritual of cleansing, applying cosmetics and pampering oneself. This time out and focus on oneself can promote mindfulness and relaxation,” says Dr. Franziska Wandrey, Head of Research at Mibelle Biochemistry.

“Recently, personal care products have taken a more active role in improving mental health, be it through fragrances or neurocosmetics. The latter directly influences the nerve cells in our skin, which has beneficial effects such as skin soothing or a more even complexion.”

Adrián Argente, senior perfumery marketing at Scentmate by Firmenich, recently spoke with us about how the company is developing solutions for added functional wellness that may improve consumers’ mental health and meet emotional needs such as joy or relaxation.

Last week, the EU changed its approach to mental health and allocated €1.23 billion (US$1.33 billion) funding, placing it on par with physical health. Although the EU’s approach touches upon various mental health services, there is space for the personal care industry to “promote good mental health” via multifunctional solutions for brain and holistic health and by raising awareness.Clariant’s Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask and the Feel-Good Magic Stick.

Importance of feeling good
In difficult socio-political and economic times, such as the Ukraine war, global recovery from COVID-19 and recession, people are more vulnerable to being affected negatively.

“In these stressful times full of uncertainties, people seek new ways to improve their well-being and resilience. In the cosmetic industry specifically, the latest trade shows have seen quite a few launches on this topic, and there is a growing demand for neurocosmetic ingredients that can fill this gap and provide inspiration for new product developments,” shares Wandrey.

For instance, at this year’s In-Cosmetics Global tradeshow, companies encouraged the importance of expression and excitement, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic. Personal Care Insights noted many health-inspired solutions for holistic benefits from cosmetics.

“Furthermore, via the skin-brain axis, an improved skin can also improve one’s mood, which in turn positively affects the skin – “look good – feel good – look good,” adds Wandrey. “Any neurocosmetic ingredient that acts on the skin-brain axis could benefit mental well-being.” 

The Dove Self-Esteem Project estimates toxic beauty ideals cost the US economy US$305 billion due to body dissatisfaction and US$501 billion due to appearance-based discrimination in 2019. 

There has been a marked shift in consumer attitudes toward skin and beauty health, explains Antonio Vendrell, marketing director at Bioiberica. “For example, there is the emerging belief that feeling good is equivalent to looking good or that one’s overall wellness nurtures natural beauty. As such, lifestyle-focused beauty represents a clear opportunity for brands looking to differentiate.” TiMood is an active ingredient based on timut pepper, which improves neuronal function in the skin (Image Credit: Mibelle BioChemistry).

Skin-brain solutions
Dr. Irene Montaño, international sales manager at Mibelle Biochemistry, previously told us: “Neurocosmetics are the next step for the market. TiMood is a completely new approach – when you feel good, you look good and vice versa.”

“TiMood is an active ingredient based on timut pepper, a spice plant from the Himalayas, that improves neuronal function in the skin and thereby increases skin homogeneity,” explains Wandrey. 

“Moreover, TiMood positively influences one’s mood and emotional well-being, which was tested via an innovative neuropsychological test. Therefore, via the skin-brain axis, TiMood can influence well-being by a skin that looks and feels good.”

Clariant explains that the existence of the brain-to-skin axis is backed up by science, explaining why some skin conditions can have mental origins. “However, this also works in reverse: healthy skin can positively affect our mood.”

Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine, Clariant’s Rootness Mood+ takes advantage of the recognized effects of light and concentrates them in an eco-responsible extract. Natural light provides essential health benefits, from warding off seasonal affective disorder to improving sleep. In regions with low light levels, populations suffer from the winter blues and low moods. Skin disorders are more prevalent compared to areas with higher light levels.

Based on Rootness Mood+ Clariant has developed the Feel-Good Magic Stick, a gel containing additional actives such as B-Circadin – which helps to re-synchronize the skin cell’s biological clock – and HerbEx curcuma extract, which increases the skin’s stress resilience.

The company also launched its Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask, featuring Beracare CBA, a blend of copaiba oil and passion fruit seed oil. 

“Copaiba oil is rich in β-caryophyllene, a phytocannabinoid known to interact with the skin’s endocannabinoid system,” explains Bruna Aline Da Silva Merigiolli, formulation specialist for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins. According to the company, this modulates cellular signals to reduce irritation and calm the skin – even better than CBD products.The EU allocated €1.23 billion funding for mental health (Image Credit: European Commission). 

In related developments, we reported on the emergence of circadian skin care, psychodermatology, adaptogenic beauty and affirmational beauty – innovations that include meaningful consumer benefits.

Mood-boosting fragrances
Firmenich introduced a range of fragrances branded Focus, powered by EmotiCODE, demonstrated to give consumers the benefit of improved focus and help them get into a state of flow.

Givaudan linked neuroscience and AI to translate scent profiles into color patterns to help brands capture and predict consumers’ spontaneous olfactory connection with color, determining the best alignment between colors, emotions and scents.

The company also unveiled “Well&Be,” a platform that assists with creating emotional product experiences for consumers.

EU invests in mental health
The EU flags that mental health problems in Europe affect one in six people.

“Mental health is as important to our well-being as physical health. We are taking a major step to support mental health in Europe for the most vulnerable, including people and children fleeing from Ukraine. Children who have to overcome terrible experiences,” states Ursula von der Leyen, president of the European Commission.

Nicolas Schmit, commissioner for Jobs and Social Rights, adds: “Around half of the European workers consider stress common in their workplace, contributing to around half of all lost working days. It is time we confront the issue head-on for the benefit of our workers and economy alike.”

“As a company, if you do not have a healthy workforce, you cannot meet your productivity potential, so there is a social and an economic imperative to tackling this increasing trend. Our mental health at work is just as important as our physical health.”

By Venya Patel