In-Cosmetics Global 2023 spotlights sustainability as innovators tap into health and art-inspired expression
03 Apr 2023 --- At this year’s In-Cosmetics Global tradeshow in Barcelona, Spain, PersonalCareInsights interviewed various exhibitors to get the latest scoop on cosmetic solutions while reporting on upcoming industry trends. Sustainability themes were buzzing, with many companies expressing it as more than a trend. Creativity was noticeable at art-themed booths – with more players encouraging the importance of expression and excitement, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic.
Moreover, personal care innovations went beyond the boundaries of cosmetics and applied knowledge from health and pharmaceuticals, extending skin-, hair- and body care to health solutions. This has enabled many companies to provide multifunctional or hybrid applications so that makeup also benefits the skin or hair – following the skinification trend.
IFF: Sustainability with high-performance
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) launched a new bio-polymer – Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) – with hair conditioning properties. It is bio-degradable and was also presented at the Sensory Bar, where visitors can try out and identify new sensations. DEB is touted to deliver other textural benefits such as smoothing, softening and detangling.
The first ingredient enabled by DEB is AURIST AGC. Aurist is a line based on biodegradable, responsibly sourced and natural sugars to improve the texture and overall rheology of beauty and personal care products.
Biodegradability has become an essential aspect of sustainability, shares IFF. It explains that the challenge is about creating sustainable solutions while improving cosmetic performance. Hair care formulations face the challenge of performing well when creating sustainable alternatives.
Grolman’s art-themed booth.
Symrise launches across categories
Symrise showcased new products and innovations from sun care, hair care, skin actives, botanicals and micro protection. In partnership with Kobo Products, it launched SymEffect UV – a synergistic mixture of renewable ingredients that enhances the effectiveness of organic and mineral UV filters. Its hair care ingredient featured adaptive peptides for tailor-made hair repair.
In the skin actives and botanicals category, it launched a hyper-frequency extraction technology that can upcycle oils from the food industry and advance Skin Sensitivity Index research. Supervisome was highlighted as a recently launched ingredient for healthy-looking skin protection.
Robertet fuses fragrance with health
Robertet offered multifunctional perfume to craft topical care solutions with functional benefits for the skin and hair. It presented Skin Defense, used for protecting the skin’s mitochondrial network from blue light damage. It is based on an extract from the roots of the flowering plant Gentiana lutea, sourced in Turkey. Perfect Radiance is to be used in products for skin-brightening claims and is based on the sweet violet flower Viola odorata L.
Beauty Ritual was presented to help remove unwanted body hair and is sourced from the leaves of the Egyptian shrub Pelargonium graveolens. On the other hand, another showcased product, Hair Therapy strengthens hair follicles and is based on the berries of pink peppercorn Shinus terebentifolius. Pure Freshness combats odor bacteria based on a patented active blend of perfumery esters hydrolyzed by skin bacteria enzymes called esterases.
The company also launched Dimpless combating cellulite and CBD nanoemulsion for skin soothing applications.
Seppic conducts a cosmetic symphony
Seppic hosted a “Beauty Party” at the In-Cosmetics Global industry event. The French chemicals specialist unveiled its collection of six new “sensorial” skincare, body care and rinse-off formulas, aligning with the themes of six musical genres – classical, rock, reggae, reggaeton, pop-electro and rap. The company launched a face cream, a black creamy purifying mask, a body cream, a transparent shower gel, light daily serum and a face and body light gel.
BASF goes digital
BASF Personal Care unveiled its digitalization “Re_think” concept for health, environmental sustainability and supply chain transparency at the In-Cosmetics Global trade show. 
Cargill Beauty’s booth.
The European chemical giant’s Surfactant Navigator and SFA Formulator enable it to digitally support customers with sustainable formulations, while its new digital tool enables end-to-end traceability in the argan oil supply chain.
The three main modules, Surfactant Finder, Smart Surfactant Replacement and Smart Surfactant Optimizer, offer formulators comprehensive and easy-to-use search capabilities, including smart filters for physicochemical parameters, naturalness and alternatives to sulfated and EO-based surfactants.
Clariant harnesses global ingredients
Clariant unveiled four sustainable and natural cosmeceuticals telling a story of provenance, featured at the ongoing In-Cosmetics Global 2023 trade show. To craft its ingredients, the specialty chemicals supplier scoured various geographical sources – from the Amazon forest to the Peruvian Andes – and consulted ancient Traditional Chinese Medicine knowledge.
Skin-brain-axis enhancement with Mibelle Biochemistry
Mibelle Biochemistry launched a timut pepper-based skin health ingredient branded TiMood. Dr. Irene Montaño, international sales manager at Mibelle Biochemistry, told us how the product supports environmental sustainability and boosts mental health and beauty via the skin-brain axis.
TiMood has been shown to improve emotional well-being in stressed volunteers, leading to a more relaxed state. Based on timut pepper – a spice plant from the Himalayas – the ingredient can improve neuronal function in the skin and increase skin homogeneity.
Metal-less pigments by Merck
Merck is spotlighting its cosmetic actives sourced from ocean algae for skin renewal alongside “next generation” sunscreen ingredients. It also presented its Ronaflux pigment range that featured high color intensity and pronounced metallic optical effects achieved entirely without using metals.
Addressing the growing market for environmentally sound and pure mineral sunscreens, Merck also showcased its newly expanded UV filter portfolio with the addition of Eusolex Z-BASE and Eusolex Z-TEC, zinc oxide filters that offer highly effective protection against both UVB and UVA rays.
Chemyunion launches hair detox and sebum control
Chemyunion showcased two launches targeting hair and skin health. It presented Polluout Detox for removing hidden damage to the hair that comes from hard water, metals from the shower pipes and pollution. 
Nouryon presenting Party Hair line.
The company also launched Peptid4 S-Control, which blocks the melanocortin 5 receptor, making it an ideal solution for oil control for young and mature skin. It is vegan and 98.75% of natural origin. It was touted as the first peptide on the market for sebum control that is effective on young and mature skin – with a reduction of 15% in oiliness within the first four hours of application.
Skinification and fermentation trends at Solvay
Solvay presented “skinification” of hair care with skincare-inspired ingredients. The ingredient supplier introduced a range of functional solutions addressing textured hair alongside novel solutions extending hair and scalp health. The company shared insights about fermentation as a technology that is greening up surfactant production.
Kao presents multifunctional fragrances and a surfactant
Kao Chemicals Europe talked us through the launch of a fragrance collection based on the air, water and earth elements and how it aligns with sustainability demands. The fragrances have been developed for three main applications: facial cleansers, body wash and shampoo.
The company also launched AKYPO SUGAR LM-42, a mild, performing and sustainable surfactant for cleansing formulations, such as shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers and baby care products. It has a 96% Natural Origin Content High-performance surfactant, showcased as extremely mild to skin and eyes. Moreover, it has a high foam profile in formulations, is easily thickened with natural thickeners and has a broad pH stability.
Ashland launches eight ingredients
Ashland showed us eight novel innovations, from an all-in-one, liquid multifunctional blend to a biofunctional ingredient-driven by artificial intelligence (AI). Highlighted themes included sustainable sourcing, naturally derived ingredients and biodegradable solutions.
The company launched Phyteq Raspberry One Multifunctional “preservative booster,” Liftyl Biofunctional from upcycling rosewood, Softhance MR conditioning agent, ecostyler Styleze Es-Dura, oral care ingredient Saffragyl Biofunctional and SPF boosting, non-microplastic film Antaron Soja.
Givaudan hyaluronic acid
Givaudan Active Beauty launched PrimalHyal Hydra[+], a new cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) that uses white biotechnology. The new ingredient is touted to “outperform” the hydration benefits of standard HA by at least a factor of two – making it applicable to rinse-off and leave-on applications.
The company also presented Gravityl, an anti-gravity face care ingredient providing a lift to the skin by improving the jawline and reducing double chin. Alongside this was RetiLife, a 100% natural-origin retinol and Siliphos is a botanical skincare ingredient pegged as the “first” natural cosmetic alternative that provides anti-aging advantages equal to retinoids.
Ajinomoto goes waterless
Ajinomoto presented waterless or water-free products based on amino acid-derived surfactants, such as Amisoft CS-11: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate – dubbed “very mild and 100% from natural origin.”
It also showcased a shampoo with its ingredient Amilite GCK-12H: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, which produces foam and allows for hair control and volume due to its coacervation. Visitors could test the Illuminating Gel at the sensory bar, containing the natural Amihope LL: Lauroyl Lysine functional powder and Eldew PS-203: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, a pseudo-ceramide emollient.
By Venya Patel
