In-cosmetics Global: Symrise reveals class of antimicrobial preservation for cosmetics “unknown to the market”

22 Apr 2024 --- Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients extends its portfolio of product-protective beauty ingredients with Savelite HB, a multifunctional hydroxypropolyester made using “green chemistry” in an entirely new “single molecule” production process. 

Personal Care Insights connected with Sabrina Mizaël, senior global product manager at Symrise, on the show floor of In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France, to discuss the launch in detail.

“We are very excited because it’s a single molecule, which still isn’t very common nowadays in product protection because a lot of suppliers are launching blends,” she tells us. “It’s quite complicated to innovate in this field. It’s been one month and customers are very excited about it.”

“We have basically introduced a new class of antimicrobial ingredients with this solution. It’s unknown to the market and we’re very proud of it.”

Savelite HB is a clear, colorless and odorless liquid that enhances product protection by acting against microorganisms and oxidation. As a cold-processable ingredient, it allows for easy handling, while saving time and energy during production. 

It is designed to preserve all types of cosmetic products targeting normal to sensitive skin.

New class of preservation
Savelite HB builds on well-established propanediol and benzoic acid molecules. The introduction of this ingredient comes ten years after the launch of Symrise’s SymSave H (hydroxyacetophenone), a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with anti-oxidant and soothing properties.

Based on well-known ingredients and harnessing innovative technology, the antimicrobial ingredient offers a range of key benefits for formulators and consumers.

While enabling the formulation of safer products, Savelite HB acts as an “efficient” moisturizer, with in vivo corneometer tests showing an increase of 10.9% after two weeks, according to Symrise. 

Savelite HB acts as an efficient moisturizer and antimicrobial agent.“It fully respects the skin microbiome,” states the supplier. “Further, it can help stabilize emulsions by reducing oil droplet size.”

“It is 100% readily biodegradable and we work to fulfill the 12 principles of green chemistry as much as possible,” adds Mizaël. “One interesting point to highlight is that Savelite HB is made from a solvent-free process and makes 100% use of the ‘atom economy,’ meaning that all the carbon we put into the reactor is used to produce the final molecule of Savelite HB, so that we don’t waste any carbon atoms in the reaction.”

“It is widely applicable to all kinds of cosmetic products,” she continues. “The pH of use is from three to seven, which is very broad. A lot of ingredients dedicated to product protection are pH-sensitive, while we are pH-independent. This is really our key USP. Even at pH seven, it protects the formula.”

In-cosmetics trade show spotlight
Among other event highlights, Ashland showcased its newly unveiled range of beauty additives responding to global “megatrends,” including a “high-tech chamomile extract.”

Seppic presented its range of cosmetic ingredients within a “Beautiful Temptations” collection stylized after the biblical “seven deadly sins.”

Givaudan Active Beauty spotlighted its “sun in a jar” active ingredient, Neuroglow, designed to “safely replicate” the positive effects of the sun for a sought-after skin glow.

Cargill highlighted its BotaniDesign ingredient, a 100% derived natural and readily biodegradable alternative to petroleum jelly.

Personal Care Insights spoke to winners of In-cosmetics Global awards, who are recognized for their innovative solutions across various categories, including dsm-firmenich’s Eterwell Youth ingredient, which secured gold for its ability to target dermo-destructive senescent cells.

BASF’s multifunctional beta-glucan Hydrasensyl Glucan Green — which merges the beneficial properties of hyaluronic acid and collagen — was awarded at In-cosmetics Global Award in the category “Kenvue Trusted Science Award,” next to three other functional ingredients.

By Benjamin Ferrer, with reporting from Anita Sharma at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France