Exploring neurocosmetics to elevate emotions and skin health

16 Jan 2024 ---The cosmetics industry is diving deeper into neurocosmetics and beauty products that can positively impact the user’s mood. Neurocosmetics uses the skin-brain connection by interacting with receptors in skin cells.

According to Sharon Laboratories, the products are formulated with active ingredients that have structural similarities to endogenous neuromediators, which regulate the main skin functions.

A neurocosmetic created following these principles becomes a product capable of communicating with the skin-brain system and can include specific sensations, such as pleasure and well-being.

Personal Care Insights interviews Seppic, Mibelle Biochemistry and Justhuman, about advancements in neurocosmetics and how these companies plan to transform the beauty industry. 

“Neurocosmetics and emotional well-being are emerging as significant trends in the beauty industry,” says Dr. Fred Zülli, founder and business development director at Mibelle Biochemistry.

Roshini Sanah Jaiswal, founder and CEO at Justhuman, adds: “The rise of neurocosmetics is not just a passing trend; it’s a paradigm shift in the beauty industry. Justhuman embraces bio-compatible formulations using natural ingredients, along with safe synthetics that nourish skin without irritation.”

More than a trend
Zülli believes consumers seek additional benefits from their self-care routines beyond the skin, and neuroactive ingredients can offer this supplementary functionality in formulations. He describes the potential advantages of neuroactive ingredients:

• Skin health improvements, such as anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.
• Anti-aging benefits, including cell regeneration and activation of growth factors.
• Enhanced sensory experiences, such as sensations of heat, cold and pressure.

Justhuman makes its neurocosmetics in California, Europe and South Korea.“However, the future of neurocosmetics holds even greater promise. The true marvel of neurocosmetics could lie in its potential for mood and stress regulation. This research focuses on the so-called skin-brain axis, underscoring the intimate connection between our largest organ and our most complex one,” says Zülli. 

Justhuman is also witnessing a growing interest in neurocosmetics and formulations supporting the skin-brain connection. 

“More research is elucidating how ingredients like peptides, probiotics and antioxidants can reduce inflammation, improve elasticity and hydration, and also promote positive emotions via neurotransmitter release. Consumers are also becoming aware that stress and emotions can affect skin conditions, fueling demand for holistic products,” says Jaiswal.

Solutions inside and out
A study from the Università degli Studi “Aldo Moro” di Bari, Italy, shows consumers are excited about new experiences that can introduce them to an “unconventional beauty routine.”

Jaiswal says, “We also harness the power of biotics, beta-endorphins and neuropeptides — our products work on the outside and inside, improving communication between the brain and skin for fast, effective results. This inventive approach accounts for neural signaling, emotions and skin health.”

Marine Pasquier, market and digital manager of Cosmetics at Seppic, adds: “This growing demand for neurocosmetics has given rise to new routines such as ‘inside-out,’ combining a food supplement with an oral application and a cosmetic product with a topical application. 

Seppic sees its “skin comfort and soothing” Sepibliss as an “inside solution,” while Sepibliss Feel is touted as a “feel good” soothing ingredient for holistic beauty and an “out solution.”

Product developments
Mibelle Biochemistry developed a cosmetic extract derived from timut pepper, which the company claims previously demonstrated cognitive function enhancement in volunteers when used as a dietary supplement. Initial studies suggest the topical application of this active cosmetic ingredient can positively influence the mood parameters of the volunteers, fostering a sense of well-being.

“This trailblazing research has given rise to a novel category of products we’ve termed ‘emotional beauty,’ thereby establishing a virtuous cycle of ‘look good – feel good – look good.’” asserts Zülli. Mibelle Biochemistry tests its timut pepper on human sensory neurons and keratinocytes.

Researchers from the Università degli Studi “Aldo Moro” di Bari believe that the definition of neurocosmetics is often confused, especially in marketing. They assert an ancestral biological and physiological connection between the skin and the brain. 

“We will continue innovating clean, biocompatible neurocosmetics that leverage the skin-brain connection. There are still discoveries to be made around ingredients and formulations that support beauty, health and emotional well-being holistically. Our offerings will evolve with research while empowering our community on their self-care journeys,” explains Jaiswal.

“The ‘modern’ cosmetology industry focuses on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action,” adds the Università degli Studi “Aldo Moro” di Bari researchers.

The digital manager of Cosmetics at Seppic adds: “Emotions, thoughts and states of mind are intimately connected to both our mental and physical well-being, impacting our skin. With this in mind, Seppic has created Sepibliss Feel, a unique feel-good soothing coriander seed oil with an innovative approach that acts both on skin and mind.”

Sepibliss Feel soothes and nourishes the skin, providing a “well-being” sensation. It limits skin damage induced by emotional stress, thanks to its 3-in-1 proven efficacy.

First, it has an “acupuncture-like” effect alongside anti-stress action, which the company claims is as effective as the action of real acupuncture on skin cells. Additionally, it protects happiness molecules (oxytocins and endorphins) from emotional stress. The preservation of these molecules has a positive effect on nerve cells and reduces pain and itch sensations. Lastly, Sepibliss Feel reduces skin sensitivity.

Assessing market gaps
Justhuman’s CEO says she identified a market gap after being diagnosed with an autoimmune disease known as Lichen planopilaris that led to hair loss and imperfections on the skin. 

As a woman over the age of 40, Jaiswal says she was not getting the results she wanted from her cosmetics.

“Justhuman was created as an uncompromising solution that addresses an unmistakable gap in products, delivering discernible results quickly while still being clean. We are changing skin care routines with clean, fast, effective and emotionally uplifting products. Our formulas are backed by neurocosmetics and designed to target specific areas of the brain that release feel-good hormones, leaving you feeling confident and empowered,” says Jaiswal.

“The skin has sensory conversations with the brain based on ingredients. Our clean peptides enable positive communication that makes you look and feel better. We mindfully consider the self-care journey — not just appearances, but empowered confidence in one’s skin.”

Continued research
A French study tracked, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical impact on the skin. It was found that skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the feelings. CEO of Justhuman created the company after seeing a market gap for functional neurocosmetics.

The in vitro model substantiated the physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. The change in ingredients impacted emotions and were better captured through non-verbal methods.

A study from Mibelle Biochemistry explored the neurocosmetic effects of its timut pepper extract in an in vitro co-culture model consisting of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes. The findings demonstrated that the extract protected these neurons from aging and enhanced keratinocyte proliferation. 

“However, the most significant challenge we faced was quantifying the beneficial impact on the mood of the volunteers following topical application,” says Zülli.

Mibelle Biochemistry employed a neuropsychological test called EmoCompass. The tool is typically utilized to gauge consumer emotions based on neuromarketing principles in FMCG. The company asserts that it pioneered applying this testing method within cosmetic active ingredient research.

“In a group of volunteers under stress, the extract notably elevated the emotional dimension associated with feeling relaxed, balanced and calmed. Consequently, the product not only supports emotional well-being but also enhances the radiant appearance of the skin of the volunteers,” highlights Zülli.

By Sabine Waldeck