Personal care industry review: Skin care innovation, plant-based ingredients and chemical crack downs

18 Dec 2023 --- Innovations with an eye to sustainability dominated 2023, with companies creating cleaner laundry sheets, eco-friendly detergent solutions and refillable deodorant packaging. Skin care was boosted by ground-breaking research helping achieve smoother, glowing skin — a key trend in Asia with the ongoing botanical boom focusing on plant-based ingredients. Scores of beauty care companies rushed to access high-growth regions such as Southeast Asia and India, with more consumers demanding luxury beauty and personal care items. AI prevailed again with user-friendly methods to “try before you buy” on mobile phones and helped address users’ skin care concerns. Finally, governments in the US and Europe continued to crack down on chemical ingredients and practices seen as harmful to people and the planet — themes that will undoubtedly carry into the new year.          

January
LastObject launched biodegradable laundry sheets eliminating sulfate and plastic use
LastObject left behind unsustainable chemicals and launched biodegradable laundry sheets, becoming the “only brand to have removed sulfates” from the formula. The plastic-, liquid- and ethoxylates-free sheets were marketed as an alternative to regular laundry detergents and developed for sensitive skin. The company told Personal Care Insights, “The laundry sheets are [environmentally] sustainable because they avoid using non-biodegradable plastics and transporting water.”

Cruelty Free International went head-to-head with the UK Home Office over animal testing in cosmetics
Cruelty Free International went to the Royal Courts of Justice in London, UK, for a two-day judicial review of the UK Home Office’s animal testing policy. It challenged the Home Office’s decision to abandon the policy ban on testing cosmetics on animals — in place since 1998. In its August 2021 letter to Cruelty Free International, the Home Office admitted to allowing animal testing for cosmetics in the UK. LastObject Laundry Sheets are free from toxins, pesticides and other harmful ingredients (Images Credit: LastObject).

EU Chemicals Agency called for evaluation of potentially risky cosmetic substances
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) published the draft Community Rolling Action Plan (CoRAP) consisting of 24 substances suspected of posing a risk to human health or the environment. Seven were cosmetic ingredients subject to evaluation. The substances selected by EU member states and the ECHA would be assessed from 2023 until 2025. Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate was chosen for evaluation this year.

Deforestation debate had Indonesia and Malaysia clashing with “protectionist” EU over palm oil policy
World leaders of palm oil production across the F&B industry, Indonesia and Malaysia joined forces against the new EU Deforestation Regulation. The two countries said the EU directive would reduce reliance on their palm oil production by not allowing its import into EU markets unless it was obtained without a link to deforestation. They agreed to tighten collaboration in a bid to combat an EU directive banning palm oil linked to deforestation.

February
US brand Suave sold by Unilever after almost a century of selling salon-quality hair care
Private equity firm Yellow Wood Partners picked up Unilever’s storied Suave brand in North America. Suave was one of the first brands in the 1930s to bring salon-quality hair care to the general public. The transaction was part of Unilever’s broader strategy to shift away from the tea business and move toward strategic growth areas that included the acquisition of hair wellness provider Nutrafol.

“Big win” for environmental justice saw NY ban beauty and personal care products containing mercury
New York State, US, prohibited the sale of cosmetics and beauty products containing mercury in stores and online after the governor signed the bill into its final status at the end of 2022. It was justified on the basis that lighter skin is often marketed as a desirable beauty standard, reinforcing a bias against darker skin tones — leaving people of color more vulnerable to the harms of mercury-based products. The mercury ban in cosmetics and personal care went into effect in June 2023.The Suave brand includes hair care, skincare, skin cleansing and deodorant products.

“Less Plastic, Better Plastic, No Plastic”: Unilever rolled out refillable packaging for Dove deodorant
Unilever’s Dove Canada launched a refillable case made from stainless steel for its range of deodorants. Dove Refillable Deodorant is created to be “refilled for life.” The refillable case is described as a compact “super-durable” stainless steel case housed in 96% recycled and fully recyclable plastic packaging. The deodorant came as part of Unilever’s efforts to reduce its footprint and adopt environmentally sustainable alternatives. 

US Cosmetics Act won industry support despite “clean label” misgivings
The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) went into effect in December 2022, but according to research from biotech company Amyris, consumers and businesses still had to independently define clean beauty as the regulation did not provide legal definitions. The Personal Care Products Council told Personal Care Insights it was “premature to consider how the act may be expanded upon.”

March
Would New Zealand be the first nation in the world to ban PFAS in cosmetics?
New Zealand’s Environmental Protection Authority (EMA) revisited its cosmetics regulation to align with the EU and extend consumer protection. It also proposed banning the use of all per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetic products starting in 2026. The EPA sought feedback on the proposed updates to New Zealand’s Cosmetic Products Group Standard regulation and was heralded by environmentalists for taking a stand against “forever chemicals.”

SCCS deemed hydroxyapatite (nano) safe for use in oral health care products
The European Commission’s scientific advisory board, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), released its final opinion on the use of hydroxyapatite (nano) in oral cosmetic products. The ingredient was suggested to be safe when used at concentrations of up to 10% in toothpaste and up to 0.465% in mouthwash. The SCCS noted hydroxyapatite (nano) could be used in skin care products at concentrations of up to 5%. According to Oral Science, hydroxyapatite (nano) is a naturally occurring calcium phosphate compound indicated by Health Canada to reduce cavities. It is also considered the “gold standard” oral health ingredient in Japan.New Zealand’s Environmental Protection Authority proposed to ban the use of all PFAS in cosmetic products starting in 2026.

In-Cosmetics Global 2023 spotlighted sustainability as innovators tapped into health and art-inspired expression
Sustainability themes were buzzing at the In-Cosmetics Global trade show in Barcelona, Spain. Personal Care Insights interviewed various exhibitors who said sustainable practices were more than just a trend while personal care innovations went beyond the boundaries of cosmetics and applied knowledge from health and pharmaceuticals to skin, hair and body care. Creative displays at art-themed booths also highlighted the importance of post-pandemic expression and excitement.

BASF advanced carbon capture tech for Japan’s 2050 carbon neutrality goal
BASF Japan said its carbon capture technology, HiPACT, would be used by Inpex, one of Japan’s largest production companies for clean hydrogen and ammonia. HiPACT would assist Inpex’s Carbon Capture, Utilization and Storage project, to help curb carbon dioxide capture and compression costs by up to 35% and support clean energy production with reduced CO2 emissions.

April
Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act granted new authorities to FDA
The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) provided the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) with new authorities. The law was expected to ensure the safety of cosmetic products on the market. The rules also applied to the nutricosmetic industry and manufacturers of ingestible products intended for “internal use.” MoCRA was seen as the “most significant expansion” of the FDA’s authority for regulating cosmetics since the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act was passed in 1938.

J&J said it would pay US$8.9B to settle alleged talcum powder lawsuits
Johnson & Johnson’s (J&J) promised to pay US$8.9 billion to tens of thousands of people who claimed J&J’s talcum powders cause cancer. The company has tried to resolve the lawsuits in bankruptcy court since 2021, creating a subsidiary to handle the scores of claims. This was the second filing for J&J (which would also be thrown out by the court). A third filing is expected in 2024.FDA now has the power to issue mandatory recalls.

L’Oréal made its biggest acquisition with US$2.5B purchase of “avant-garde” Aesop from Natura & Co
L’Oréal acquired cult-favorite Aesop, a subsidiary of the Brazilian firm Natura & Co, for US$2.53 billion. It was the biggest transaction made by the French beauty giant. Aesop would join a host of brands under L’Oreal’s large umbrella including Garnier and Maybelline. Under Natura & Co since 2012, Aesop’s sales grew nineteen-fold with consumers lapping up the luxury brand’s exfoliating hand wash, scented body lotions and incense kits. The deal closed in the third-quarter.

Bed Bath & Beyond filed for bankruptcy after failing to win over online shoppers
The 52-year-old retailer filed for bankruptcy protection and would close its 360 Bed Bath & Beyond stores months later. The bankruptcy filing followed years of dismal sales and numerous attempts to turn the flailing business around but it seemed the retailer could not compete with rivals especially in the e-commerce space. The name does live on, however, with Overstock.com dumping its name online to become Bed Bath & Beyond.

May
EU voted to ban synthetic polymer microparticles in cosmetics and fragrances
Member state representatives in the European Commission’s registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals (REACH) Committee voted to adopt a proposal restricting or banning synthetic polymers in cosmetics, personal care products and detergents from the EU. The ban was put in place months later and applied to products including toothpaste, face scrubs, makeup and fragrances.

Head & Shoulders unveiled nine-ingredient anti-dandruff shampoo in recyclable “roll-and-squeeze” bottle
Procter & Gamble’s Head & Shoulders brand launched Bare, an anti-dandruff shampoo with nine ingredients. The company said it wanted to tackle the misconception that anti-dandruff shampoos damage the scalp so it rolled out a fully recyclable bottle designed for “efficient extraction” with two variations, Pure Clean and Soothing Hydration. The dermatologically tested formula is free from sulfates, silicones and dyes, with the bottle using 45% less plastic per mL.The REACH Committee voted to adopt a proposal to restrict or ban synthetic polymers in cosmetics.

Big data revealed top nail trends and impact of “extreme realism” in virtual try-on solutions
Perfect Corp. used big data sourced from top global markets to reveal top 2023 nail trends that included neutral nail colors as the most popular and most-frequently tried-on shades with more consumers moving toward “edgier neutral tones” like black nail polish. The tech company’s analysis was processed through its YouCam Nails app featuring thousands of AR-powered filters letting users virtually try-on nail color and nail art effects in real time.

Allergan Aesthetics secures FDA approval for injectable hyaluronic acid innovation
The US FDA approved Allergan Aesthetics for Skinvive by Juvéderm, hailed as the “first and only” hyaluronic acid intradermal microdroplet injection for skin smoothness in the US. With local anesthetic, the injectable gel was said to enhance skin quality by smoothing and hydrating the cheeks. The company said results could last up to six months, addressing an “unmet need” in skin quality treatments. Clinical studies showed patient satisfaction with radiance, hydration and overall skin health. Mild side effects were reported, prompting FDA-required training for providers. 

June
“Convergence of AI and biology”: Unilever and Arzeda cultivated record-breaking home care designer enzymes
Unilever and Arzeda achieved a fivefold acceleration in enzyme development for cleaning and laundry products. The advanced enzymes, developed with Arzeda’s Intelligent Protein Design Technology, enhanced cleaning performance at lower temperatures. The innovation was touted as aligning with Unilever’s Clean Future strategy for sustainable, high-performance products. Unilever said the “breakthrough” is set to propel the company toward its net-zero emissions goal for all products by 2039. Arzeda’s technology combines AI and biology for home care industry solutions. 

Hair loss treatments grew with personalization, supplement launches and stem cell-based topicals
Androgenetic alopecia, exacerbated by stress and hormonal shifts, prompted a surge in hair loss solutions. A report on the multi-billion dollar global hair restoration market suggested it could grow at a CAGR of 15.4% by 2028. Hims & Hers bridged beauty and pharmacy with a pill launch to combine multiple supplements for personalized hair loss treatment while More Hair Naturally pioneered a “human-to-human compatible” stem cell-based topical solution for effective and side-effect-free hair recovery. Vitamins Revive entered the market with a holistic Hair Growth Vitamins Kit for Women, emphasizing fast and effective absorption of key ingredients.Unilever and Arzeda’s enzymes will enhance brands such as Persil, Seventh Generation, Comfort, Sunlight and Surf.

Tech-enhanced beauty: AI-powered handicap gadgets, “tap to pay” systems and metaverse experiences
L’Oréal presented AI-infused handheld devices in the digital beauty arena, including a 3D brow printer and diagnostic tools. Lancôme’s Hapta aids makeup application for those with physical limitations. LVMH introduced “Tap to Pay” for iPhone users in US stores, allowing in-store contactless payments. Also, Essence Makeup entered the metaverse with a Roblox game, “Color Dare by Essence,” promoting diversity and kindness during Pride Month. The digital initiatives aimed to enhance consumer engagement and inclusivity.

Pfizer’s Litfulo “first and only” adolescent alopecia treatment approved by FDA
The FDA approved Pfizer’s Litfulo (ritlecitinib) as the first once-daily oral treatment for severe alopecia areata in adults and adolescents, offering relief to those with substantial hair loss. Litfulo inhibits Janus kinase 3 and the “tyrosine kinase expressed in hepatocellular carcinoma family of kinases,” addressing the autoimmune disease. Clinical trials showed 23% of patients achieved significant hair regrowth with most common side effects being headache, diarrhea and acne. Phase 3 trials are ongoing to assess long-term safety and efficacy.

July
EU proposes restricting D4, D5, D6 as persistent organic pollutants in Stockholm Convention
The EU Chemicals Agency (ECHA) proposed restricting cosmetic silicones D4, D5 and D6 under the Stockholm Convention to reduce persistent organic pollutants worldwide. Detected in human plasma and breast milk, the cyclosiloxanes raised concerns due to reproductive, carcinogenic and endocrine-disrupting effects. ECHA sought public comments on the draft proposal. Simultaneously, the EU Commission proposed stricter restrictions under REACH Regulation, aiming to limit market presence in various products. The proposal urges global action against using D4, D5 and D6.

Shiseido sought wrinkle prevention with pure retinol softening skin’s stratum corneum
Shiseido discovered that hardening the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum, is a critical factor in wrinkle formation. Using “pure retinol,” Shiseido developed a treatment to prevent wrinkles by softening the stratum corneum. Its proprietary Retinol TripleLock Technology ensures stability and controlled release of pure retinol and is recognized by Japan’s Ministry of Health.The Stockholm Convention aims to protect human health and the environment from persistent organic pollutants.

EU banned 30 toxic chemicals in beauty and personal care products
The EC banned several cosmetic ingredients classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic for reproduction (CMR). It was part of an amendment to Annexes II of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Beauty and personal care products with CMR substances would be prohibited in the EU from December 2023. Earlier this year, the European Environment Bureau and CHEM Trust emphasized the need to address delays in chemical bans, particularly concerning REACH revision.

Retinol 50: BASF rolled out new grade of vitamin A made stable without BHA or BHT
BASF introduced Retinol 50, a retinol variant excluding potential endocrine disruptors and carcinogens BHA and BHT. The move aligned with rising demand for clean beauty solutions. The company offered a retinol portfolio catering to diverse formulations but despite highlighting harmful effects, BASF acknowledged its existing portfolio still included formulations with BHA and BHT.

August
EU implemented requirement for companies to release sustainability reports to accelerate Green Deal agenda
The EU adopted the European Sustainability Reporting Standards, mandating large and listed small- and medium-sized EU companies to disclose social and environmental reports. Part of the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, the regulations involved personal care giants in the EU. The move aimed to enhance transparency and help stakeholders assess sustainability efforts. The first batch of companies, including beauty majors, must adhere to the new rules from 2024 onwards.

Beiersdorf saw double-digit growth thanks to Nivea amid China’s “daigou” culture denting luxury brand sales
The popularity of Nivea sunscreen helped boost Beiersdorf’s bottom line with group sales rising 12.3% in the first half of the year, reaching €4.9 billion (US$5.4 billion). However, the luxury segment struggled due to Asia’s daigou shopping trend with La Prairie’s sales sagging 9.9% to €294 million (US$321 million). Beiersdorf welcomed Chinese government measures to reduce daigou and also raised its sales forecast for the year.Beauty companies based in the EU need to prepare for the ESRS legislation.

Prevalence of “forever chemicals” in period products flagged by researchers
A study of 100 period products from various markets revealed the presence of PFAS in most categories. Tampons and menstrual cups showed no PFAS, while others had intentional or unintentional levels. PFAS, known for their persistence, pose health risks through skin absorption and environmental contamination. Researchers advocated for industry-wide scrutiny, labeling and potential regulation. The lack of historical studies on period products raised concerns about gender bias and underscored gaps in women’s health regulatory oversight.

FDA approved spiral tampon breaking 90-year-old design while research revealed optimal menstrual product type
Sequel’s innovative tampons, with spiral grooves for improved absorption, received FDA approval, marking a breakthrough in menstrual care. Traditional products lack industry-standardized testing, prompting Sequel’s modern approach. The start-up’s FDA clearance and 11 patents, with a proprietary manufacturing method, signaled a transformative shift in a stagnant industry. Meanwhile, Oregon Health & Science University’s (US) research highlighted menstrual discs’ superior absorbency, emphasizing the need for product innovation.

September
3,500-year-old balm unearthed in Egyptian mummy a “sensory bridge to ancient past”
Researchers recreated a scent based on a mummifying Egyptian noblewoman who lived thousands of years ago. The balms were the “richest, most complex” yet identified from the period and seen as an inspiration for modern-day perfumers. Researchers wanted to provide a multisensory experience to visitors exploring history, allowing them to connect with the past through a “uniquely olfactory day” that would “bridge a deep temporal divide.”Dammar resin, an ingredient used in embalming, next to a bottle of the ancient scent recreated by perfumer Carole Calvez. (Image Credits: Barbara Huber).

Producers fired back at “inherently discriminatory” EU deforestation legislation
Indonesia, Brazil and Malaysia raised “multiple concerns” with the EU and European Commission after deforestation regulation, introduced in June, targeted seven commodities. EU authorities were called upon to “engage in a more meaningful and open dialogue with producing countries” to establish effective cooperation with its trade partners. The legislation is said to promote the consumption of “deforestation-free” products and reduce the EU’s impact on global deforestation and forest degradation.

California passed bill banning 26 toxic cosmetics chemicals in alignment with EU
California aligned with European regulators to pass a bill banning the sale of cosmetic products containing 26 toxic chemicals. The bill, now signed into law, targeted substances seen as hazardous, such as some borate compounds, lily aldehyde, cyclotetrasiloxane, trichloroacetic acid, styrene and certain colors. The original law goes into effect in 2025, and the new one will be implemented in 2027 to give companies time to revamp product recipes.

EU banned microplastics intentionally added to cosmetics and household products
The European Commission adopted measures to restrict microplastics intentionally added to products under the EU chemical legislation Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. The ban broadly defined microplastics, covering all synthetic polymer particles below five millimeters. Cosmetics using microplastics for multiple purposes, such as exfoliators (microbeads) or obtaining a specific texture, fragrance or color, would no longer be allowed. 

October
Southeast Asia and India named as new luxury beauty hotspots with billions in growth potential
Global consultancy firm Kearney and beauty e-commerce platform LuxAsia said Southeast Asia and India would experience the next “gold rush” in luxury beauty with a market potential of US$7.6 billion by 2026. The markets were profiled throughout the year, with many forecasts, including Kearney’s, calling for the region’s market size to triple in ten years. India and SEA demonstrate economic promise for luxury beauty brands.

Dow launched ionomers from renewable feedstocks for circular cosmetic packaging
Dow unveiled two ecological ionomer grades using renewable and circular feedstocks: Surlyn CIR, from mixed plastic waste, and Surlyn REN, from industry bio-waste such as cooking oil. The chemical giant said the two grades would be significant for cosmetic packaging and plastics industries, allowing beauty brands and manufacturers to create sustainable and high-quality packaging.

BASF unveiled eco-friendly emulsifier and enzymes for beauty and hygiene solutions
BASF said growing consumer demand for natural products motivated the company to create Emulgade Verde 10 MS, an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier for natural personal care formulations. It also offered a “green” solution with Lavergy M Ace 100 L. Made with mannanase, the enzymes were billed as “essential components” of modern detergent formulations aiding in environmentally sustainable laundry performance to help lift stubborn stains in home and commercial laundry applications.

Google’s AR beauty tools let online shoppers do virtual makeover transformations
Google launched AR beauty tools on mobile browsers, allowing shoppers to try before they buy to help find the right shade of lipstick or ideal hair color. Brands could also promote products with AR beauty advertisements. Google’s internal data suggested a 10% increase in shopper engagement when AR was involved. Building on its success with AR, Google said shoppers who interacted with its AR beauty tools were likely to spend more time on a brand’s site.

November
Amorepacific acquired Cosrx by increasing stake to fulfill global expansion plans
Amorepacific officially turned Cosrx into a subsidiary by purchasing ₩755.1 billion (US$556.9 million) worth of outstanding Cosrx shares. The Korean cosmetics giant said the skin care brand showed “rapid growth through differentiated products and marketing based on an exceptional understanding of digital channels.” Cosrx is a hypoallergenic brand designed for sensitive skin — centered around The RX and Advanced Snail lines. Cosrx’s Advanced Snail Line is popular on Amazon.

BASF invested in collagen-repairing peptides with stake in US start-up 3Helix
BASF obtained exclusive rights to 3Helix’s collagen-hybridizing peptide (CHP) technology with an equity investment to bring the US-based start-up’s proprietary technology in-house. It plans to introduce CHP innovation to the personal care market in 2025. 3Helix was created in 2015, and a platform was developed to target damaged collagen for various applications, including personal care.

Sephora boosted India presence by partnering with billionaire Ambani’s Reliance
LVMH-owned Sephora made a more significant push for India’s prestige beauty market by partnering with Reliance Beauty & Personal Care, a subsidiary of Reliance Retail Ventures, owned by billionaire Mukesh Ambani. Sephora said it was “excited to partner with the largest retail group in India,” seeing the country as “one of the largest untapped consumer markets globally.”

European Court rejected Symrise appeal to avoid animal testing on its products
Symrise was dealt another blow in its quest to fend off regulators ordering the cosmetic manufacturer to perform animal testing on two of its ingredients targeting sun care products. The General Court ruled Symrise had to conduct animal tests under the EU’s primary chemicals legislation if no other non-animal alternatives were available. The German cosmetics manufacturer had appealed a decision by the European Chemicals Agency, which required Symrise to conduct animal testing on homosalate and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate — two ingredients already approved and used exclusively in sunscreens. 

December
Beauty boost: “Recession-proof” retail giant Ulta posted solid third-quarter sales
Beauty appeared to be more than skin deep — even recession-proof. Consumers battling high inflation with thinner wallets may have sought solace in small expenditures at retailers like Ulta Beauty. It surpassed analysts’ expectations with solid third-quarter results and net sales of US$2.5 billion, up 6.4% year-over-year. Higher comparable sales and strong new store performance also helped push Ulta’s share price higher after the earnings release.Lush entered wholesale distribution with Ulta.

Skin care spotlight: Harvard’s itch discovery and Beiersdorf’s microbiome research
The skin’s microbiome drew much attention with groundbreaking research revealing the dynamic interplay between microbes and skin health. Personal Care Insights checked in with Beiersdorf and Harvard University to learn more about their research developments and innovations and how they could combat skin diseases such as acne and eczema. 

Disruptive tech and collaborations led to cleaner biosurfactants for cosmetic formulas
Personal Care Insights did a deep dive into biosurfactants, marine surfactants and marine-derived microbes with Sasol Chemicals and two scientific studies published in MDPI and ScienceDirect. With surfactants most often derived from non-renewable or less sustainable resources,” Sasol saw a sustainable alternative with its biosurfactants for cleaner cosmetic formulas.

UK authority’s probe into Unilever’s “green” claims “surprised and disappointed” FMCG giant
Some products made by Unilever and used daily by consumers worldwide were targeted by the UK’s Competition and Markets Authority (CMA). The regulator expressed concern over certain “green” claims it believed may be unclear and misleading to consumers, so it launched an initial review to investigate the multi-billion dollar company. The CMA promised to look at “essential” products consumers purchase at the grocery store, from detergent and kitchen spray to toiletries, and “drill down into Unilever’s claims to see if they measure up.”

By Anita Sharma, Venya Patel and Sabine Waldeck