April in review: Regulation revisions, anti-aging science and In-cosmetics Global

29 Apr 2024 --- In personal care industry developments, April saw a dual narrative of tightening regulations in Europe and high activity in ingredient innovations that merge new functionalities with eco-friendly sourcing and production.

The EU Parliament’s landmark vote to revise the CLP Regulation was met with enthusiasm from industry players, particularly for its expedited processes for natural ingredient commercialization. However, concerns persist over the delayed REACH revision — an issue potentially compounded by the upcoming elections.

Concurrently, industry collaborations delivered scientific advancements, including Beiersdorf and Rubedo’s “breakthrough” anti-aging solution and Evonik’s net-zero hydrogen peroxide.

Personal Care Insights met key players at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France, with many showcased solutions aligning with the shift toward natural ingredients and clean alternatives focused on efficacy. We connected with suppliers, highlighting their award-winning ingredients at the event.

April

Evonik introduces carbon-neutral hydrogen peroxide with “zero impact on performance”
We spoke to Evonik, who introduced net-zero hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in Europe, backed by the “Way to GO2” sustainability strategy. Christoph Batz-Sohn from Evonik Active Oxygens assures that the new certified H2O2 maintains the same quality and performance as traditional H2O2 without logistical changes. Wella Company is among the first brands to adopt the ingredient, reducing Scope 3 emissions in the process. Evonik’s “insetting” approach, certified by TÜV Rheinland, ensures traceable sustainability benefits for customers despite a slight premium.

EU restriction of specific nanomaterials in cosmetics elicits calls for advanced screening
Personal Care Insights met key players at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France.The EU Commission added specific nanomaterials to the prohibited list in the Cosmetics Regulation due to insufficient safety data. Banned nanomaterials include compounds like copper, silver, gold and platinum colloids. These restrictions take effect in February 2025. Moreover, hydroxyapatite (nano) in cosmetics is limited to specific concentrations and application areas, with stricter regulations starting in November 2025. Concurrently, the RIVM recommends new nanoparticle detection methods for better safety assessment in cosmetics and food products, citing ongoing challenges in validation. 

In-cosmetics Global live: “Seven temptations” inspire Seppic’s ingredient innovation for skin and hair care
Seppic showed us a range of cosmetic applications at In-cosmetics Global, including Xylishine C and Solagum GM, while introducing the “Beautiful Temptations” collection inspired by the seven deadly sins. Within its portfolio, Xylishine C, an active ingredient for hair repair, demonstrates improved scalp health and hair fiber restoration across various climates and hair types. Solagum GM, a natural gum with thickening and moisturizing properties, garnered attention for its biodegradability and texture-enhancing capabilities. The “Beautiful Temptations” collection featured formulations aligning with beauty trends like waterless beauty, skinimalism and sensory beauty, offering multifunctional benefits for consumers.

In-cosmetics Global live: Cargill Beauty highlights natural beauty ingredients to replace petro-based solutions
Cargill Beauty showcased BotaniDesign and Actigum Care at In-cosmetics Global as natural alternatives to chemical ingredients. BotaniDesign, a biodegradable polymer derived from grapeseed and castor oils, is a palm-free, non-GMO replacement for petroleum jelly, offering comparable smoothness and moisturizing effects. Actigum Care, a vegan rheology modifier, boasts a high natural composition and outperforms synthetic versions, enhancing sensoriality and functionality in cosmetic formulations like the Bouncy Anti-Aging Cream. These were made per consumer demands for sustainability and clean beauty products.

In-cosmetics Global live: Givaudan Active Beauty reimagines iconic industry molecules
At In-cosmetics Global, Givaudan Active Beauty showed us its latest innovations, including Neuroglow, a sun-mimicking ingredient from Indigo plants promoting skin pigmentation and well-being hormones like oxytocin and beta-endorphin. PrimalHyal 50 Life, a sustainable hyaluronic acid, reduces environmental impact significantly, and Illuminyl 388, enhanced with cell-free glycosylation, targets pigmentation disorders across diverse skin types. 

In-cosmetics Global: Symrise reveals class of antimicrobial preservation for cosmetics “unknown to the market”
Symrise unveiled Savelite HB, a multifunctional hydroxypropolyester created through an innovative “single molecule” production method using green chemistry principles. Sabrina Mizaël, senior global product manager at Symrise, told us that Savelite HB introduces a new class of antimicrobial ingredients to the market, offering efficient product protection against microorganisms and oxidation. The clear, colorless, odorless liquid is cold-processable, making it easy to handle during production while catering to various cosmetic products, including those for sensitive skin. Savelite HB also acts as a moisturizer, respects the skin microbiome and stabilizes emulsions across a broad pH range.

In-cosmetics Global: Evonik features biosolutions to meet rising consumer demand
Beiersdorf and Rubedo Life Science enter a multi-year partnership.Evonik spotlighted its biosolutions, like biosurfactants and biotech actives at In-cosmetics Global, focusing on sustainability in personal care. The company is ramping up its focus on natural and plant-based actives, highlighted by its launch of biosurfactants and “skin-identical” vegan collagen. Evonik’s recent acquisitions strengthen its botanicals and natural actives portfolio, aligning with consumer demands for clean beauty. The launch of NeoPlanta Withania and accolades for Ecohance Remo XP and Tego Filmstar One MB underscore Evonik’s focus on eco-friendly innovation.

In-cosmetics Global: Jungbunzlauer demonstrates sustainable skin care using natural solutions
Jungbunzlauer highlighted its natural and vegan solutions, such as Xanthan Gum and Citrofol Citrate Esters, at In-cosmetics Global. These alternatives replace synthetic thickeners and stabilizers and offer biobased options for sun care products. Teresa Berninger told us the benefits of these ingredients in sunscreen formulations, emphasizing their role as solvents for organic UV filters. The company also presented its natural skin cream as a sustainable choice, free from microplastics and synthetic thickeners, meeting market demands for eco-friendly beauty solutions. 

Beiersdorf and Rubedo bank on discovering “breakthrough” anti-aging solution through senescence research
Beiersdorf and Rubedo Life Science initiated a multi-year partnership to co-develop and commercialize an undisclosed “breakthrough anti-aging solution” for the global face care market. This collaboration involves exploring novel compounds targeting cellular senescence, contributing to age-related skin changes. We spoke to Beiersdorf about the research focusing on senolytic and anti-inflammatory compounds sourced from Rubedo’s topical dermatology program, aiming to rejuvenate aged skin. Beiersdorf’s emphasis on safety and quality standards aligns with its market presence for future product commercialization. This emerging field promises innovative solutions for healthier, youthful-looking skin.

Industry cheers EU Parliament’s CLP revision vote amid criticism of “slow progress” with chemical regulations
Cosmetics and fragrance industry members welcomed the EU Parliament’s vote to revise the CLP Regulation. The revisions are expected to streamline commercialization processes for natural ingredients. Despite this progress, the delayed REACH revision is anticipated due to upcoming elections. The EU’s slow progress in chemical protection has been criticized by environmental groups, urging more action for safer products and environmental sustainability. Despite ongoing challenges, the focus remains on aligning regulations with industry competitiveness and sustainability goals.

By Venya Patel