Givaudan releases CBD replacement for anti-aging and pollution protection

12 Jun 2024 --- Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Silybidiol as “the first” globally compliant alternative to CBD (cannabidiol) molecule designed to combat the adverse effects of urban photo pollution and promote skin health. 

The ingredient is extracted from the fruit of the milk thistle with Green Fractionation. The Swiss company says Silybidiol offers a holistic approach to aging, leveraging the “OxInflammation” concept, the cycle connecting oxidative stress and inflammation. 

Giada Maramaldi, global category manager for botanical actives at Givaudan Active Beauty, tells Personal Care Insights, “Silybidiol acts on well-being, on skin radiance and skin homogeneity in response to our busy, stressful lives. It counteracts the harmful effects of the exposome by acting on a delicate balance called OxInflammation, which is an innovative concept in cosmetics.” 

“In fact, we have been able to demonstrate that by using Silybidio, our skin cells are better able to maintain a correct balance through crosstalk. This translates into a more radiant and homogeneous skin that’s more relaxed and in a better mood.”

Innova Market Insights data indicates anti-pollution personal care and beauty launches are thriving, with a 4% average annual compound growth from October 2018 to September 2023. Most of these launches were in Face/Body Cosmetics. Anti-pollution claims were most often used alongside Moisturizing and Hydrating claims.

CBD replacement
Givaudan has witnessed a shift in the perception of skin care and aging in recent years, evolving toward “a more positive and resilient approach known as ‘pre-aging.’” The approach emphasizes the importance of self-care, focusing on prevention and overall well-being. 

“We discovered that Silybidiol specifically activates CB2 cannabinoid receptors and delivers the same benefits as the hero CBD molecule,” says Romain Reynaud, R&D director at Givaudan. 

Givaudan releases new ingredient to replace CBD.“As such, not only does it reduce inflammation, which improves skin tone, but it also stimulates the production of beta-endorphins, feel-good peptides that contribute to overall wellness. This dual-action mechanism underlines Silybidiol’s efficacy in promoting healthy, radiant skin while supporting emotional well-being.”

The active ingredient provider recognizes the link between positive emotional well-being and skin condition, promoting skin health and longevity. 

The set of extrinsic aggressors to which our skin is exposed challenges skin health and longevity. These factors encompass UV radiation and pollution, which disrupt the skin’s balance and can have a damaging cumulative effect on skin health and emotional balance.

Silybidiol binds to cannabinoid receptors in the skin and activates cellular crosstalk. This activates skin defenses and detoxification pathways to maintain OxInflammation balance and promote well-being effectively.

“Silybidiol is a unique active ingredient that maintains OxInflammation balance. While it shares some similarities with other active ingredients claiming to be an alternative to CBD, it is unique in its protection of OxInflammation balance. What’s more, it has been tested for well-being and has been shown to boost good mood and de-stress,” adds Maramaldi.

The company says clinically tested versus placebo and CBD on volunteers exposed to photo-pollution reveal that Silybidiol offers:

• A drastic improvement in skin homogeneity (2.7 times better than CBD).
• Enhanced skin radiance (1.6 times better than CBD).
• An improvement in volunteers’ well-being (equivalent to CBD).

“Silybidiol responds to a number of trends, including emotional beauty. Consumers want to de-stress and use cosmetics as a real ally for holistic well-being. It merges the concepts of stress and pollution and tackles them holistically,” explains Maramaldi. 

“Also, the request from consumers is to ‘vibrate radiance,’ and this active ingredient responds by offering more radiant skin and a radiant mood. Finally, there is growing interest in traditional knowledge from plants, with ethnobotany and traditional medicines being revisited according to modern science. Silybidiol is a very powerful medicinal plant that responds to this trend.”

The ingredient is said to protect and reverse the consequences of the exposome for all beauty product consumers. It is made from 100% natural origin, ISO 16128 and is vegan-suitable.

Past developments
This week, Givaudan also debuted House of Naturals (HoN), which is set to develop “exclusive ingredients” that focus on “consistent quality, craftsmanship and sustainable processes to meet the highest standards” for its fine fragrances.

The scent manufacturer believes its perfumers are the “driving force” behind fragrance creation, and the new structure is expected to expand its range of possibilities. HoN was built with four pillars: Agronomy, innovation, operations and perfumers to implement structural and operational improvements, from field to fragrance.

The manufacturer previously launched Nympheal, Neuroglow, PrimalHyal 50 Life and Illuminyl 388.

In our Special Report, we spoke to Curaloe and Monteloeder by Suannutra about anti-pollution skin care and supplement innovations

By Sabine Waldeck