In-cosmetics Global: Roquette Beauté showcases new pea-based cosmetic and sensorial makeup ingredients

19 Apr 2024 --- Roquette Beauté exhibited at this week’s In-cosmetics Global beauty industry trade fair in Paris, France. The French supplier spotlighted its latest product innovations in everyday essentials, comforting skin care and full glam makeup and hair care.

Speaking to Personal Care Insights at the event, Bénédicte Courel, general manager at Roquette Beauté, introduced the supplier’s latest ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 INCI Hydroxypropyl Starch. The cosmetics ingredient is yellow pea-based and designed to “enhance and tense up” the skin when used in formulations.

The ingredient caters to the rising consumer demand for plant-based skin care and makeup products. The pea crop has “minimal impact” on water resources, climate change and land use, according to the manufacturer.

“The team has been working for a long time to launch this completely new and innovative product,” Courel tells us. “It comes from pea starch, which is a great material because it’s highly sustainable. Beyond regenerative harvest methodologies and removal of pesticides, we use 100% of the pea grain that enables us to make use of the full raw material and generate no waste.”

Courel highlights that Roquette ST 730 answers the need for water resistance in makeup recipes, which enables the product to form a film on the surface of the skin and provide long-lasting and non-transfer benefits.

“Whether it’s eye shadow or eyeliner, the idea is that a makeup product stays all day long with our plant-based ingredient,” she notes. “The market is very demanding in terms of performance and claims, so we have conducted different tests.”

“One is a heavy water resistance test for benchmarking versus existing synthetic materials, such as PVP [polyvinylpyrrolidone], well-known for its water-resistance, or pullulan. We obtain excellent results at the same percentage level, which is 5%.”

Beauté by Roquette ST 730 helps makeup stay on longer while delivering a lifting effect on the skin.“Lifting” effect in skin care
In skin care applications, Roquette highlights the “immediate lifting effect” of the ingredient.

“Consumers like to hide fine lines and wrinkles, especially around the eyes,” says Courel. “This ingredient can provide a lifting and tightening effect on the skin in three minutes. We’ve done a clinical study with 40 volunteers of women aged 45–65 to show our ingredient’s ability and efficacy in lifting effect.”

“On top of the scientific data we’ve conducted, we also collected data on how participants feel about our product. More than 82% of volunteers perceive a strong visible effect on the skin.”

At In-cosmetics Global, Roquette featured a Sensory Bar at its booth that showcased an Aquaglide Eyeshadow featuring a vibrant color that wears up to 24 hours. The booth also spotlighted Aquachic Eyeliner for “dramatic looks without worrying about smudging” alongside Clean It! Makeup Remover for a “comforting, creamy” makeup clean-up.

In-cosmetics coverage
Among other event highlights, Ashland showcased its newly unveiled range of beauty additives responding to global “megatrends,” including a “high-tech chamomile extract.” 

Seppic presented its range of cosmetic ingredients within a “Beautiful Temptations” collection stylized after the biblical “seven deadly sins.”

Givaudan Active Beauty spotlighted its “sun in a jar” active ingredient, Neuroglow, designed to “safely replicate” the positive effects of the sun for a sought-after skin glow.

Cargill highlighted its BotaniDesign ingredient, a 100% derived natural and readily biodegradable alternative to petroleum jelly. 

Personal Care Insights spoke to winners of In-cosmetics Global awards, who are recognized for their innovative solutions across various categories, including dsm-firmenich’s Eterwell Youth ingredient, which secured gold for its ability to target dermo-destructive senescent cells. 

BASF’s multifunctional beta-glucan Hydrasensyl Glucan Green — which merges the beneficial properties of hyaluronic acid and collagen — was awarded at In-cosmetics Global Award in the category “Kenvue Trusted Science Award,” next to three other functional ingredients.

By Benjamin Ferrer, with reporting from Anita Sharma at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France