Annual review: Natural and digital solutions proliferate as climate and inflation concerns surge

23 Dec 2022 --- As 2022 draws to a close, PersonalCareInsights reviews the most significant industry developments of the year. Notably, the industry saw a turn toward natural alternatives using biotechnology and fermentation with a focus on a robust microbiota. Moreover, digitalized services proliferated as society recovered from the COVID-19 pandemic and remain popular with companies harnessing artificial intelligence for personalized products. Toward the end of the year, the industry faced an energy crisis paired with inflation-induced costs. Additionally, governments introduced more stringent regulations to prevent pollution and ensure cosmetic ingredients are safe for human and environmental health.

January

EU ban on tattoo ink has artists scrambling for alternatives, UK mulls similar restrictions
In 2022, the UK government investigated the purported health and safety risks of certain tattoo pigments following a large-scale ban in the EU by the European Chemical Agency. Around two-thirds of colors ordinarily used by tattoo artists were banned – more than 4,000 prohibited substances commonly found in tattoo inks. Ines Schreiver, chairlady for the European Society of Tattoo and Pigment, spoke with us about the organization’s position on the regulations.

Conagen develops kaempferol by fermentation, seeks research partners to break ingredient into new markets
Biotechnology company Conagen created a precision fermentation method for manufacturing kaempferol – a flavonoid with nutritional and personal care uses. Representatives spoke to us about the technique being more sustainable than chemically or botanically derived kaempferol. The procedure was noted to be cost-effective to meet the demand for the ingredient at affordable prices.The tattoo ink ban was reportedly based on a lack of evidence regarding the pigments’ safety when injected into the skin.

Triclosan found in toothpaste and cosmetic products could trigger gut inflammation, flags study
Triclosan (TCS), a high-volume chemical used as an antimicrobial ingredient in consumer products, such as toothpaste and cosmetics, was found to potentially induce colitis and harm the gut microbiome. Colitis is an inflammation of the inner lining of the large intestine – colon. “Eventually, TCS-glucuronide can enter the colon tissues and interact with gut bacteria in the colon tissues and be converted back to the parent compound TCS, which has pro-inflammatory effects,” Guodong Zhang, associate professor, food science department at the University of Massachusetts, told PersonalCareInsights.

Sotecna’s Nutrelix snail extract sees growing popularity for skin care and beauty-from-within trends
Sotecna spotlighted its Nutrelix snail extract to address a host of nutraceutical applications, targeting beauty-from-within and cough syrup formulations. The product has been available for a few years – however, it resurfaced as “trendy” due to its widespread use in Korea, Adèle Nowak, account manager at Enzybel Group, told us.

February

Upcycled ingredients may become “industry standard” for cosmetic and fragrance space, experts say
As personal care brands sought environmentally friendlier methods for NPD, upcycled ingredient use increased. We spoke to Lubrizol Life Science, who revealed the potential of upcycling for cosmetics and fragrances and how these may become common practice in the industry. “Over recent years, we’ve seen a shift in consumer interest from organic and all-natural claims to more sustainability-related claims, like upcycling,” said Bianca McCarthy, global marketing manager of lipotec active ingredients.The European Council says future regulations will benefit “first movers” within the CCU industry.

Carbon capture and utilization tech maximizes cosmetics profits by monetizing waste
The European Council said future regulations will benefit “first movers” within the carbon capture and utilization industry (CCU). CCU became an emerging technology to transform how companies and governments pursue climate goals. Using CCU, manufacturers can prevent waste carbon from entering the atmosphere, using it to produce ingredients like ethanol. This can then be used to create products like perfume or cosmetics packaging, LanzaTech told PersonalCareInsights.

Ancient fermentation meets biotech: Working with microbes for cleaner cosmetic ingredients
This year, we saw the rise of fermentation-based solutions – expanding from an ancient method of food preservation to offering the beauty and personal care space cleaner, sustainable and affordable ingredients. PersonalCareInsights delved into biotechnology and production methods with Conagen and Amyris.

No more colloidal gold beauty masks? European Commission notifies WTO of plans to ban nanoparticles in cosmetics
Colloidal silver, colloidal gold and similar ingredients found in popular beauty products, such as glittery face masks, came under fire in the EU market. The European Commission notified the World Trade Organization of its draft amendment to the EU Cosmetics Regulation to ban specific nanoparticles in cosmetics. The Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety flagged these materials as a potential health risk.

Ban animal testing in Switzerland? It’s not so simple, say activists and industry
Swiss voters overwhelmingly rejected a ban on medical animal testing and an import ban for ingredients tested on animals. According to animal rights experts and industry members, a muddied legal code and the risk of losing access to life-saving medical research and imports of supplement ingredients are behind the decision. We spoke to members of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, Tir Im Recht, the Swiss Federal Food Safety and Veterinary Office, as well as spokespeople from Interpharma and Novartis about the issue.

March 

Firmenich exec details conscious perfumery targets for 2030 featuring renewable fragrances
Global fragrance and taste company Firmenich unveiled its environmental, social and governance goal of becoming the world leader in conscious perfumery by 2030. The company set ambitious targets for fragrance biodegradability, renewability, carbon neutrality, responsible sourcing and transparency. “Conscious perfumery aims to create conscious fragrances and be open to sharing what is inside the fragrance,” Michal Benmayor, VP of conscious perfumery business development at Firmenich, told PersonalCareInsights.Firmenich’s fragrance portfolio will consist of 99% ultimately or partially biodegradable ingredients by 2030.

L’Oréal and Emotiv harness neurotech and algorithms for personalized fragrances
L’Oréal partnered with bio-informatics and technology company Emotiv to create a headset device for helping consumers decide on their personalized fragrance. The headset uses machine learning algorithms that interpret electroencephalography as consumers experience scent families. This allows for accurate sensing and monitoring of preferences, stress and attention to detail, resulting in a “perfect scent” to match their mood.

Symrise expands to European “birthplace of perfumery” with SFA Romani and Groupe Neroli acquisition
Symrise submitted a binding offer to fully acquire R Romani – Société Française d’Aromatiques and Neroli Invest, both specialists in high-end fine fragrances in Grasse, the French perfume capital. “The acquisitions add to our access to the best natural fragrance ingredients. They increase our access to the know-how of the south of France,” Ricardo Omori, SVP of global fine fragrance at Symrise told us.

Givaudan Active Beauty’s new upcycled Patchoul’Up to patch up hair and scalp issues
Patchoul’Up, a “100% upcycled” ingredient, was debuted by Givaudan Active Beauty as a solution to dry flakey scalp, balancing the scalp microbiome and the sebum production. “The distilled leaves are dried and re-valorized in a side stream with an adapted process to conjure Patchoul’Up, an active ingredient obtained from upcycled patchouli leaves,” Pauline Martin, operational marketing and communication manager at Givaudan Active Beauty, told PersonalCareInsights.

Research team examines how a robust microbiome could be the secret to healthy aging
UK-based Norwich Research Park received a portion of US$2.6 million in funding from the government to tackle healthy aging. The research center looked explicitly into the skin’s microbiome as key to aging well. We spoke with Dr. Damon Bevan and Dr. Jelena Gavrilovic, co-founders of the Norwich Skin Platform of the University of East Anglia, and Professor Mark Webber, group leader from the Quadram Institute of Biosciences.

April

Mercury-containing skin lightening products continue to be sold online despite health dangers, ZMWG warns
A report published by Zero Mercury Working Group uncovered that almost half of all skin-lightening products sold in major online retail channels have high mercury levels, despite the metal’s harmful properties. The significance of this discovery has prompted responses from e-commerce giants including Amazon, eBay and Flipkart – whose skincare product offerings were implicated. The global market for skin lightening products is expected to reach US$11.8 billion by 2026, up from US$8.8 billion in 2022.Daily exposure to mercury can lower the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, causing rashes, discoloration and blotching.

Symrise and CRIEPPAM partner for white lavender bio-regeneration and sustainable supply chains
Symrise and the French research institute Centre Régionalisé Interprofessionnel d'Expérimentation en Plantes à Parfum, Aromatiques et Médicinales (CRIEPPAM) partnered to produce Symrises’ next generation of white lavender plants. Within three years, the collaboration aims to be certified as “Plants Sains” (healthy plants) for a sustainable supply chain, ensuring traceability. “In late 2020, our partnering lavender farmers requested us join the “Plants Sains” system to fight against a chronic lavender disease. A bacterial infection causes it and leads to significant harvest losses affecting the farmers’ income,” detailed Beatrice Favre-Bulle, SVP perfumery excellence at Symrise.

Chemyunion blazing NPD for natural-based hair repair and skin cell renewal solutions
Brazilian chemical manufacturer Chemyunion unveiled a range of new product offerings, including hair repairing shampoo Restart PRO, spot lightening active ingredient Iselight, hair controlling spray Allinea and acne combating ingredient Miracne. Iselight has a mechanism of the action that acts on the skin’s self-recycling processing, rescuing the cells’ metabolism and eliminating the pigment of aging spots. It is also marketed as the first product that acts on the root cause of the age spot formation. 

Dow taps into holistic, upcycled beauty solutions with new ECOllaboration Collection
Beauty and personal care chemical solutions provider Dow launched various ingredients and products derived from sustainable sourcing using upcycled and natural materials. The company unveiled these new ingredients within its ECOllaboration collection with efforts to meet consumer demands for sustainable and inclusive solutions. Dow found that 56% of consumers are willing to pay more for a natural cosmetic formulation.

May 

Niacinamide holds “secret” to unlocking next generation of skin hygiene products, says Unilever
Vitamin B3 – also known as niacinamide – was spotlighted as a key ingredient for new skin hygiene products, boosting the levels and effectiveness of antimicrobial peptides produced by the skin to counter invading virus and bacteria cells. A collaboration of Unilever scientists, quantum computing and AI experts and the Science and Technology Facilities Council at the Hartree Center uncovered how the vitamin works on the skin microbiome.Shiseido introduced an eco-centric beauty brand called Ulé powered by “the future of botanical beauty” – vertical farming (Image Credit: Shiseido).

Shiseido unveils vertical farming beauty brand Ulé with bio-based Sulapac packaging
With beauty companies increasingly making commitments to meet the 1.5°C climate challenge, Shiseido introduced an eco-centric beauty brand called Ulé powered by “the future of botanical beauty” – vertical farming. The brand also partnered with Sulapac for bio-based and anti-microplastic packaging lids. Through its launch, the brand is touting “reasoned beauty” as a new ideal positioned to shape the beauty industry.

Progress on banning animal testing in Europe for good is stalling, warns Unilever
On the fourth anniversary of the global ban on animal testing for cosmetics enforced by the European Parliament, Unilever asserted that the issue of animal testing is going “backward.” Unilever stressed that the EU chemicals regulatory body, Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) still requires animal testing despite the EU’s cosmetics ban on animal testing – implemented in 2013. Unilever flagged this as a “mismatch” that needs to be addressed.

Givaudan Active Beauty casts away stretch marks with Centella CAST
Centella CAST, a natural molecule derived from green fractionation of the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, was utilized by Givaudan Active Beauty to restore skin elasticity, firmness and density lost during pregnancy. “Centella asiatica is sustainably sourced in Madagascar thanks to a traceable process and to long-term and formalized relationship and good communication between the supply chain,” Pauline Martin, operational marketing and communication manager, told PersonalCareInsights. In parallel, Active Beauty formulated Body Confidence, a “light emulsion” consisting of Centella CAST to “fade the color of stretch marks over time” and improve skin collagen.

“Blue beauty movement”: Algae and seaweed propel environmentally sustainable solutions
PersonalCareInsights dove into the unique properties of algae and brown seaweed, which offer environmentally friendly alternatives for anti-aging and skin microbiome balancing. Experts argued that marine-derived ingredients will drive the cosmetics industry in the years ahead, while there remains much potential for further research. The “blue beauty” movement for environmental and ocean conservation focuses on the conscious use of ingredients and cosmetics packaging. High purity, certified organic fucoidan extracts for inclusion in unique “beauty-from-within” supplements are also in high demand by market-leading personal care brands.

June

“No makeup makeup”: Younger generation’s trend natural beauty post-pandemic
PersonalCareInsights spotlighted growing shifts in the beauty space toward embracing natural looks in makeup. Younger generations are an empowered group that prioritizes self-love and individuality. With the rising popularity of TikTok and influencer culture, younger generations have found themselves in the spotlight by simply being themselves.L’Oréal explored how the emerging metaverse can be harnessed to reach a new generation of customers.

From Ayurveda to TikTok trends: Active Concepts launches fermented rice water for hair care
Active Concepts tapped into the ancient practice of Ayurveda, “India’s oldest medical system,” with its ACB Rice Water SF launch for hair growth and rejuvenation. The upcycled ingredient has shown to maintain and enhance hydration. Mixing 5% of the ingredient in deionized water proved to protect hair against humidity. “Rice water is a huge, internet-driven trend. We wanted a way to create an upcycled value-add product that maximized performance while aligning with this trend,” Alexandra Mozina, technical marketing at Active Concepts, told PersonalCareInsights. 

Personalization drives beauty’s future: L’Occitane’s Duolab and Revieve launch Online Skin Diagnosis tool
With the COVID-19 pandemic popularizing digital beauty solutions, L’Occitane Group’s start-up brand Duolab launched its Online Skin Diagnosis tool in partnership with Revieve. “Even before the pandemic hit, we recognized a growing demand for personalized, high-level digital brand experiences and a need to help our partners serve their customers across all channels,” Sampo Parkkinen, CEO and founder at Revieve, told PersonalCareInsights.

L’Oréal drives future of internet with next-gen virtual beauty economy
L’Oréal explored how the emerging metaverse can be harnessed to reach a new generation of customers across its haircare, active cosmetics and mass consumer portfolio. In particular, it delved into web2 services such as skin diagnosis, teleconsultation and virtual try-on. “The future of beauty is physical, digital and virtual. Therefore, while keeping our feet grounded in web2 acceleration, we are exploring web3 with a novel on-chain beauty approach,” said Asmita Dubey, chief digital and marketing officer at L’Oréal.

EU Green Deal complicates the future of fragrance industry, IFRA study finds
The fragrance industry faced a critical juncture as the European Green Deal’s Chemical Strategy for Sustainability (CSS) outlined a requirement for substituting chemicals and reformulating products. This was found to potentially pose an annual €2 billion (US$2.1 billion) industry loss. Proposals made under the CSS include an extension of the General Approach to Risk Management, which does not take into account the narrow range of substances fragrances have to achieve their function.

July

Beauty meets AI: Unilever partnership drives microbiome research for self-healing skin
Unilever scientists researched ways to stimulate the skin’s organic ceramide-producing mechanisms so that it can mend itself. It partnered with IBM and Eagle Genomics to create modern approaches using AI to unearth new insights in microbiome datasets and provide treatments for dry skin. “The skin microbiome is made up of hundreds of different species and the power of AI can be used to determine how these species are linked to skin health, for example, in skin hydration,” Michael Hoptroff, senior microbiome research manager at Unilever R&D, told PersonalCareInsights.IFRA spotlighted that a risk-based approach is important for evaluating the safety of fragrance ingredients.

Wet wipe island: UK government considers plastic ban amid River Thames pollution fiasco
The seemingly innocent wet wipes used for exfoliation, makeup removal and cleansing made their way into the UK’s second longest river, the Thames, creating a swamp of plastic waste that changed the river’s course. As a result of numerous wet wipe pollution cases in sewage and rivers, the UK parliament took into consideration a Plastics (Wet Wipes) Bill to prohibit the manufacture and sale of wet wipes containing plastic, and connected purposes. “Beauty brands and shops should all be moving towards a complete ban on plastics in wet wipes,” Fleur Anderson MP, member of parliament for Putney and shadow paymaster general, told PersonalCareInsights.

Industry calls for cruelty-free policy action on EU chemical regulations as petition deadline looms, EC and ECHA respond
Unilever urged the EU to deliver consistency between chemical regulations and the 2013 ban on animal testing for cosmetics amid concerns that production loopholes may emerge. However, the ECHA defended animal testing under certain conditions for the long-term protection of human and environmental health. An EU official told us that the CSS includes a strong commitment to promote alternatives and move away from unnecessary animal testing in the EU and beyond. 

Symrise repositions SymClariol as antimicrobial alternative to EU-banned zinc pyrithione
Symrise strategically reintroduced its multifunctional SymClariol (decylene glycol) as an antimicrobial emollient that protects the skin and scalp. The company is marketing SymClariol as an alternative to the banned zinc pyrithione, a reproductive toxin. The move focused on the ingredients’ strengths, Symrise claims. “We have taken an in-depth look at SymClariol’s capabilities. The versatile ingredient is globally compliant. Formulators can use it in many concepts from scalp to toe,” Laura Meunier, global product manager at Symrise told PersonalCareInsights.

IFRA spotlights fragrance’s social value as EU shakes up chemical and sustainability rules
The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) released its Green Deal policy recommendations focused on the role and value of the fragrance industry in the EU’s sustainability transition. The report urged EU policymakers to take “full account” of fragrance’s economic, social and cultural value in drawing up new chemicals and environmental sustainability rules. “IFRA’s main concern coming from the EU CSS – a sub-strategy of the European Green Deal – is the move toward hazard-based regulatory instruments,” Aurélie Perrichet, regional director Europe at IFRA, shared with us.

August

Scotland makes public health history: “First” in the world to make period products legally free
The Scottish government implemented the Period Products Act, making it a legal right to access free period products in the country. This legislation came into force on August 15, implying that “councils and education providers will be legally required to make period products available free of charge to anyone who needs them.” Shona Robison, cabinet secretary for Social Justice, Housing and Local Government, shared with us that the government is “proud to be the first national government in the world to take such action.”Astronauts in space are often impacted by high UV exposure, dysregulated circadian rhythm and environmental stress.

“Tide is turning”: FDA commits to eliminate animal testing, eyeing US$5M in funding
The American Chemical Society highlighted that the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is wholly evaluating its animal testing requirement, thus also impacting the cosmetics sector. “The FDA promotes using the 3 R’s – Replace, Reduce and Refine – in the development and use of alternatives to animal testing as well as adherence to the most humane methods available within the limits of scientific capability when animals are used for testing the safety of chemicals and finished cosmetic products,” FDA spokesperson told PersonalCareInsights. 

CBD products at risk of ban in Hong Kong this year, companies face precarious future
The Government of Hong Kong pushed for the prohibition of cannabidiol (CBD) – a relaxant natural compound sourced from cannabis – in personal care and nutritional products, including any topical or ingestible forms, via a legislation. “The legislature and the public support this proposal in general. In this relation, an online briefing session on the legislative proposal was held on 27 June 2022. More than 100 representatives from the medical, social welfare, education, logistics, industrial and commercial sectors, as well as parents registered to join the session and most of the attendees did not object to the proposal,” a spokesman from the Hong Kong Narcotics Division, Security Bureau, told PersonalCareInsights.

Johnson & Johnson to stop selling talc-based baby powder to meet “evolving global trends”
In 2023, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Health announced it would internationally “transition to an all cornstarch-based baby powder portfolio” – replacing its iconic talc-based Baby Powder. This decision came as the Talcum Powder Compensation Center urged US consumers of J&J’s Baby Powder to reach out to a legal team for “millions of dollars” as compensation. “We continuously evaluate and optimize our portfolio to best position the business for long-term growth,” Melissa Witt, Director, Global Lead, Media Relations at J&J shared with us. “The transition will help simplify our product offerings, deliver sustainable innovation, and meet the needs of our consumers, customers and evolving global trends.”

Cheaper sanitary products in the EU? Member states can opt for “full VAT exemption”
The Council Directive on the amendments for VAT justified that it is appropriate for EU countries to apply reduced rates to strengthen the resilience of health systems. EU member states can now choose to entirely exempt VAT on female sanitary products, as they are considered basic needs. “Female sanitary products were already included in the list of goods to which a reduced rate as low as 5% could be applied under the former rules,” an EU official told PersonalCareInsights. Under the system, which was updated in April, “new rules on VAT were formally adopted by EU finance ministers.”

Space-based personal care can help prepare for “weather extreme” impacts on skin health
Industry-led personal care solutions to space stressors were found to also help equip humans living on Earth, who increasingly face similar environmental impacts exacerbated by climate extremities that affect not only skin health but also broader stress-related health issues. Julie Droux, senior technical marketing specialist, actives and natural origins at Clariant, spoke to PersonalCareInsights, highlighting the difference between Earth and space-based personal care and essential ingredients used to protect skin health. 

September

UK extends Brexit-based deadline for labeling cosmetics with Responsible Person
This year’s deadline for labeling products with a UK-established Responsible Person was extended until 31 December 2025. The Office for Product Safety and Standards informed that products placed on the market in Great Britain still need to comply with the rest of the UK Cosmetic Regulations. “The UK establishes the legal requirements for the information that has to be presented on a product label, and this has remained the same in the UK as it was in the EU, with the single exception of the transitional provisions for the labeling of RP and country of origin,” Nicholas Shaw Núñez, head of international growth and regulatory services at The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, told PersonalCareInsights. The European Commission's State of the Union address unveiled the main political priorities for the next working year, with the energy crisis featuring high on the list.

EU petition for banning animal testing in industry receives “record-breaking” 1.4M signatures
As the EU petition to ban animal testing closed, 1,413,383 EU citizens signed the Save Cruelty Free Cosmetics/End Animal Testing European Citizens’ Initiative, demanding an end to animal testing. The top priorities, listed by Brussels-based Cruelty Free Europe, include a comprehensive plan to end animal experiments in the EU with agreed milestones, targets and timetables, implementation of a ban on animal testing in cosmetics and the sale of animal-tested cosmetics. 

Kao’s shampoo and laundry sheets ready to rocket to the International Space Station
This autumn, NASA and SpaceX launched Crew-5 to the International Space Station, along with Kao’s 3D Shampoo and laundry sheet. PersonalCareInsights spoke to a Kao representative about product development and personal care in outer space. “We believe that the products we have developed for the ISS can be applied on the ground in situations such as droughts and disasters,” the spokesperson said. 

EC identifies over 80 fragrance allergens with “obligation to label” for immune system protection
A new draft by the EC listed 56 ingredients to be added to Regulation 1223/2009, summing up more than 80 fragrances, individually required to be declared as allergens “if their concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.” EC has flagged the amendment to the WTO, highlighting the objective of protecting human health. 

EU energy crisis: LVMH shrinks heat and light consumption as France braces for winter
LVMH lowered the thermostat and light use in its stores to enable a 10% reduction in energy consumption in one year. The move came after the French government urged the country to reduce its energy consumption amid growing energy crisis concerns. President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen warned that the crisis requires immediate action from all member states. 

Kimberly-Clark partners for green energy at hygiene manufacturing site, UK gov urges emission reduction
Kimberly-Clark joined forces with Carlton Power, for supply of hydrogen to the company’s manufacturing facility at Barrow-in-Furness in the UK. “The initiative will enable Kimberly-Clark to source locally produced hydrogen and might help mitigate some of the uncertainties where the energy crisis is linked to the supply of natural gas,” Oriol Margo, sustainability transformation leader EMEA at Kimberly-Clark, told PersonalCareInsights. 

October 

Unilever issues product recall for over 1.5M dry shampoos due to “cancer-causing” chemical
Certain lots of Bed Head, Dove and Tresemmé dry shampoo aerosol products produced prior to October 2021 were recalled by Unilever Canada due to potentially elevated levels of harmful benzene. The company reported 1,574,426 units of the affected product were sold in Canada between January 2020 and October 2022.The amendments in H. R. 7667 Act encourages “nonclinical tests” instead of animal-based tests.

Uncovering clean beauty solutions with industry experts via biotech, green chemistry and digital services
As the clean beauty market proliferated, PersonalCareInsights spoke with industry experts from BASF, Clariant, Evolva and Givaudan, who provided insight into the use of biotechnology and green chemistry, including details regarding the consumer demand for multi-use and minimalist products as well as regulations and the future outlook.

Inflation, COVID-19 and Russia-Ukraine war: The trifecta driving radical change in the beauty industry
A generation of hyper-knowledgeable consumers demanded more openness around supply chain ethics, carbon footprint and financial inclusivity in the growing cost of living and climate crises, a report commissioned by Beauty Pie revealed.

Microbiome as the next big thing? Expert says “consumers deserve better” as misconceptions pervade
The term “microbiome-friendly” is a relatively recent concept picking up steam in the beauty space. PersonalCareInsights spoke to Symbiome, and delved into the niche to demystify microbiome misconceptions by better understanding certifications. We also spotlighted upcoming trends that are overtaking clean beauty. 

US Senate passes historic bills to curb animal-testing mandates and encourage ethical science
The US Senate passed a five-year legislation that reauthorizes the FDA to federally-enforce animal testing alternatives, in what the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine champions as “a win for animals and consumers.” At the same time, the Senate dropped a “dangerous” provision that would have hindered state laws from banning animal-tested cosmetics.

November

Firmenich, Sensegen and Conagen usher in a new era of “truly novel” biotech-crafted fragrances
Biotechnology-based solutions in the fragrance space paved the way for a sustainable future while promising the scalability of rare novel fragrances. Firmenich, Sensegen and Conagen revealed what is upcoming in this space and the benefits and the potential of biotechnology for clean cosmetics.The cosmetics and pharmaceutical sector contribute to 92% of toxic micro-pollution in wastewater.

French Gen Y and Z are “transforming consumption patterns” and rank top makeup, care and hygiene brands
A France-based study on 1,200 consumers found key differences between Gen Y and Gen Z values that drive “brand love” and also unveiled a ranking of the top brands based on preferences under the hygiene, care and makeup sectors. The new generations represent approximately a third of the purchasing power in France.

Conflicting outlooks on detergent pods: Call for health and environment safety or an attack?
According to the American Cleaning Institute, a “misinformation campaign on valuable chemistry used in detergent products” spread through a petition led by Blueland and Plastic Pollution Coalition.

C16 Biosciences unveils palm oil alternative platform for environmentally sustainable beauty NPD
C16 Biosciences introduced Palmless, a consumer-facing brand platform that will bring alternatives to unsustainable palm oil. The platform launch came at the heels of the company’s 50,000-liter industrial-scale fermentation completion. The company also hinted on releasing a beauty product featuring its Palmless Torula Oil.

Stringent EU clean water rules could financially choke industry for its micro-pollution
As part of enacting the Green Deal, the EC proposed stricter rules on ambient air, surface and groundwater pollutants and urban wastewater treatment to protect human health and ecosystems. These rules would require cosmetic companies to pay to remove “toxic micro-pollutants” from EU wastewater.

December 

Ariana Grande debuts MOD: A modern twist to vanilla, floral and fruity fragrances
Grammy award winner and US pop singer Ariana Grande unveiled her first fragrance duo with MOD Vanilla and MOD Blush. The fragrances are inspired by the energy of the modernity movement, popularized in 1960s London, UK, representing the values of freedom of expression and individuality.Firmenich partnered with Pantone to create Live Bold Eau de Parfum (Image Credit: Firmenich).

BASF and Zara curtail microfiber water pollution with laundry detergent launch
In partnership with BASF, Inditex’s Zara Home brand launched The Laundry, touted as the first detergent designed to lessen microfiber discharge while washing in cold temperatures. The launch aims to lower carbon emissions and extend the lifespan of garments in an era of fast fashion and rising sea levels. 

Firmenich hacks mental performance with AI-tailored fragrances for boosting focus
While fragrances are known to trigger particular olfactory memories and emotions, an untapped field in perfumery is intentionally crafting a scent experience to enhance mental states. Pioneering research in this space, Firmenich introduced a range of fragrances branded Focus, powered by EmotiCODE.

IFF reorganizes with new business strategy for efficient financials and productivity
International Flavors & Fragrances updated its strategic plan and launched an operating model as part of the next stage of its transformation. The company aims to change its current divisional structure by integrating operations with its three primary end markets – food and beverage, home and personal care and health – to better support their customers. 

Color collision: Pantone, Firmenich and Givaudan paint a portrait for 2023 NPD
As Pantone set a vibrant hue for 2023 with the Color of the Year Viva Magenta 18-1750, symbolizing vim and vigor, PersonalCareInsights caught up with Givaudan and Firmenich on how the shade will influence future NPD. While Firmenich created a magenta-inspired perfume in partnership with Pantone, Givaudan hinted at primary colors to make a splash in the coming year.

By Venya Patel, Radhika Sikaria, Benjamin Ferrer and Inga de Jong